Within the calm of this handsome Georgian house is a restaurant in which the best of English cooking, with some imaginative flourishes into a wider sphere, is served graciously and well. Only the best of local produce is deployed. Some evenings there will be live, but discreet music. The freshly prepared cream of tomato soup with croutons may sound slightly banal but it is a long time since I enjoyed it so much. The fillet of Cornish hake, glazed with smoked cheese and surrounded by a tomato, white wine and herb sauce was a rare treat, and was well rounded off with a dazzling array of home-made puddings that left one viewing even the local cheeses with a slightly jaundiced eye. The selection of over one hundred wines, many in half bottles is an added attraction.