Always an attractive place The Miller has been given an uplift which has not made a single visible sacrifice to its charm, yet has somehow increased its overall appeal. Nor has it been achieved by smoke and mirrors.

All too often one reads about village inns that have upgraded without sacrificing the interests of the locals, who nonetheless are conspicuous by their absence. Not here, and as likely as not you will find yourself sitting next to a local party, either in the bar or the handsome restaurant.

An a la carte menu draws heavily on the surrounding locality, starting with gravadlax of salmon and pickled cucumber, followed by The Miller style grilled sirloin of dry aged beef, with mushrooms, spinach and pont neuf potatoes, roasted Cornish turbot, or poached fillet of halibut with a nage of cockles, mussels and vegetables.

Pudding of raspberry shortbread and clotted cream or a dark chocolate tart pistachio ice cream are two good ways of concluding a well presented and prepared meal, and with a changing menu there's always something new to be enjoyed. This is a thoroughly recommended inn of great character.