Long gone are the days when our great national institutions saw it as no part of their duty to supply their visitors with refreshment. Then came humanity and accountants, let's hope in that order, and now the National Gallery has really pushed the kitchen out. Or to be more precise Oliver Peyton has, and in conjunction with David Collins has transformed the top floor of the building into a very glitzy place.

The food is indubitably British, making few demands on the intellectual cuisenaire, but full of good cheer. Think potted crab, lemon jelly and crispy rye bread followed by Thai green chicken curry with wild rice and toffee apple cheesecake. Breakfast choices include designer omelettes or the classic British and grab an express lunch of two or three courses that include terrine of the day, crispy skin sea bass with coco bean and chorizo, and lemon tart with berry compoté.