Formerly of the King's Arms, of the same parish, Peter and Louise Robinson have moved from the world of award-studded gastropubs to something rather different where the priorities and the mechanics of the place are geared to another pace, perhaps best illustrated by the designation of dining room, rather than restaurant.

Emphasis is very much on local produce, an expression of will carried to extremes in some quarters, not least the chef patron who takes much pride in his herd of Gloucester Old Spot pigs, with whom he has regular re-unions in the kitchen, where every last part is put to good use. Unusual sharing dishes could include côte de boeuf or possibly a line caught sea bass weighing in at about one and half pounds.

Local affiliations do not prevent a few flutters into the unusual, particularly where the Orient is concerned. A typical menu could field Cornish scallops with chorizo, rack of lamb boulangère with garlic and parsley sauce, followed by classic burnt ginger creams, or a Turkish yogurt cake with passion fruit curd.

There is also a nice system of barter that enables the local gardeners to take in garden fruits or vegetables in return for a pat on the back, a glass of wine and a mention on the menu maybe.

The inn carries the whiff of community about it, locals or passers-by are equally welcome - and the food and drink are of the most genuine.