Recently the subject of a major refurbishment, the Olive Branch has lost none of its charm. Acting as a magnet to the local populace, with entries in the Good Food Guide and a number of awards, enjoyment continues unabated. The recipe for success remains largely unaltered with sound ingredients and a lack of any fussiness as opposed to care in preparation. From an impressively/alarmingly, depending on your point of view, large menu such dishes as Scottish mussels with wine cream and Indian spices, a carpaccio of Angus fillet beef with cracked pepper and lemon oil and parmesan shavings, and anchovies wrapped in smoked salmon with a lemon salad command particular attention. From the main courses the eye may stray to pot-roasted breast of chicken flamed in sherry-toasted pine kernels and sultanas, a ragout of mussels, squid potato and basil, or the Scottish salmon in crab and brandy sauce.

A recent report having suggested that dark, plain chocolate is within bounds, the Belgian chocolate tart may meet with approval, whilst for those who don't give a damn there's always sticky toffee pudding, with a classic lemon tart for those who wish to remain blissfully unawares. The wine list is well formed with good value choices below £20, glasses of house wine at £2.40 or £10.95 the bottle, and some worthy high fliers in the upper ranges if you are pushing the boat out.