The Peacock has recently been acquired by Lord John Manners, from nearby Haddon Hall, one of the most evocative stately homes in Britain in the view of many. A thorough refurbishment has been carried out and there are 16 comfortable en suite bedrooms.

Head Chef Matthew Rushton has installed a menu that may well take its inspiration from His Lordship's table, but even if it does not it is greatly to be commended. It certainly is mindful of local ingredients and the evening menu could offer wild mushroom consommé with wild rice, a Dorset crab with vegetables in the Greek style, or smoked haddock agnelotte with quail's egg, peas and Parmesan cream. Main courses mostly have that pulling quality, but alas no assiette of them, though starters and puddings versions are available. Marlin tournedos, crab risotto, spinach, and Shimeji mushrooms with red wine sauce are popular, with beef fillet and venison haunch not far behind.

A classic orange bavarois sets the pace for the desserts, and should you ask for a savoury you will be met not by a blank stare but a proper Welsh rarebit with pickled walnuts. Full marks, chaps! The wine list is every bit as competent as the cooking.