It says much for the influence of Chinese cuisine that there should be at least two Chinese restaurants of such quality as Phoenix in Cambridgeshire villages. This pub conversion in Histon, marked by two protective lions at the door, otherwise virtually indistinguishable from its previous purpose, specialises in Peking and Szechuan cuisine.

This is serious Chinese food, served precisely, with no great overburden of charm, in surroundings that are elegantly restrained and furnished. Dishes that particularly come to mind are the Cantonese roast pork, braised with honey and barbecue sauce, the traditional but never-failing crispy duck and the toffee bananas.

Phoenix is well worth making the detour to find and with its pleasant village-green setting makes a pleasant combination of cultures.