Above this Old Church Street pub is a civilised dining room that would do credit to a gentleman's club, with accoutrements to match. Described in some quarters as a gastropub or whatever you choose to call that now well established form of eatery, the overall effect at The Pig's Ear is one of good food in comfortable surroundings, a refreshing lack of the clutter that some places have to fill niches and ledges that do not need filling, and a menu that is challenging, in the nicest way.

Consider the smoked mackerel and ricotta pâté, the slow cooked duck leg with orange and mint salad, or lamb neck fillet with baby onions, gem lettuce, chorizo, peas and shoots. A nice finishing touch could be the hot banana split and hazelnut ice cream.

Wine has been given the priority it deserves and whilst those downstairs may be disposing of serious quantities of good ales and other brews, drinking upstairs is taken in a rather more measured manner.