In the spiritual home of the sandwich I think I might have expected to find a little more homage paid to this very English invention, but that is hardly the case at the Red Cow, though the steak sandwich is no bad effort, even though the modern tendency to submerge the real event in a welter of 'extras', including the dreaded 'garnish' is probably not what the Earl of Sandwich had in mind. However, other things make up for it and a relatively short but appetising menu starts with The Red Cow Prawn Salad, quite an event in itself, possibly potato skins, or take a chance on the soup of the day.

From main courses the steaks, 10oz sirloin or 14oz t-bone seem to offer good value, with a sauce of your choice for an extra pound. Dedicated offal addicts might lean towards the liver and bacon with a good creamy mustard mash, and onion gravy.

A blackboard of desserts completes the picture, though cheese buffs will be happy to hear that cheese and biscuits are offered at appreciably less than the outrageous price so often charged for this little eccentricity.