Every so often some English pub, usually in the Home Counties, often sadly neglected and run down is the beneficiary of a makeover by a combination of Peach Pubs and an entrepreneurial, local character working with them. The results are invariably of a high order and another proper pub is returned to the fold.

This time it's the turn of The Richard Onslow, in the heart of Cranleigh, a handsome building with hung red tiles, which has been given a thorough overhaul and is back in business to the delight of locals and those from further afield.

In charge is John Taylor. John has wide experience in the trade and after deciding that British hospitality is at its best in pubs he had a spell at the Punch Tavern in Fleet Street before linking up with Peach. John and his team in the kitchen have worked out a menu that celebrates pub favourites as well as something a little different. Fresh food prepared on the premises is their policy, with spectacular results.

Breakfast is served from 9am to 11am. An express menu operates throughout the day, five dishes such as ham, egg and chips, designed for speed, backed by substantial sandwiches all served with chips or soup of the day. A deli board behaves rather like an international selection of tapas, all available individually or a selection by the board, all served with rustic bread or chutney.

Lunchtime, from noon to 2.45pm, could run along the lines of chicken and spring onion terrine with apricot and walnut chutney, Gressingham duck breast with spinach, potato rösti, chickpea and orange jus, options on char-grill and salads.

In the evening the deli board is brought back into play and can serve either as a starter or even as a main course derived from a series of small dishes, possibly for a group. A number of either/or dishes can fit in as required, amongst them courgette, pea and broad bean risotto, with/ without honey roast ham, backed by some more conventional starters potted crab with roasted rye, or roast tomato and mozzarella tart with tapenade.

A char-grill treat of 28 day dry aged Casterbridge côte de boeuf on a board for two comes with chips, grilled tomato, roast vine tomatoes and béarnaise sauce, and from amongst eight main courses look for chilli and lime-spiked fishcake with summer salsa and baby leaf salad, or Gressingham duck breast, spinach, potato rösti, chickpea and orange jus.

Puddings at The Richard Onslow are not to be taken lightly, in any sense, but outstanding are the strawberry Eton Mess, and lemon posset, lime syrup and ginger biscuit. They are strong on aprés la guerre with a good selection of coffee, stickies and nightcaps.

The express menu along with sandwiches is served from noon ? 6.30pm and those who want to have routine in their food can opt for roast of the day teamed with a seasonal vegetable dish. Most dishes points in between there is something to please everyone, except vegetarians! A wine list of elegance and good judgement from all over keeps stride well with the menus.

This is a well recommended pub-restaurant well deserving of Alastair Sawday's judgement of the group as a whole, "The most innovative small pub group in the land". Click on their Website for forthcoming events and menu variations with the seasons.