So many exciting things seem to be happening down on the Leith shore nowadays and certainly one of them is The Shore, a restaurant devoted primarily to seafood, though still capable of pulling some pretty rousing game or vegetarian dishes out of the bag.

Essentially this is a smoky bar with a restaurant attached. Whilst you can eat amidst the smoke you may prefer the unpolluted easy informality of the wood panelled dining room, particularly in winter when open fires keep the rheums at bay.

The kitchen concentrates on what the seasons and the seas have to offer at any particular time, then concentrate on serving them without too much fussing to an eager public at prices which are designed to please. The results are simply delicious. Grilled halibut with black pudding, smoked salmon and basil oil is a typical dish, for me only slightly ahead of chilli and herb-crusted roast cod with orange and coriander sauce in the popularity stakes.