Here is the complete answer to those who think that for an eating-place to survive it has to have a support structure of not less than 10,000 possible customers within two miles radius. The Sportsman stands bleakly between sea and marsh, like a slightly shabby elder relative. What money has been expended has been well-used on the interior which is bright and cheerful. Stephen Harris, who owns the place and is his own self-tutored chef does simple things well, using only local produce.

A starter could be anti-pasta for two, which includes such delights as bresaola, fresh anchovies, hard-boiled quails' eggs and oysters - oh yes - and topped with chorizo. Why is it that any house, which keeps Shepherd Neame beers, makes a point of looking after them particularly well - does the brewery have so much respect for its products that it runs courses for those who sell them? Anyway it happens here too and there are about twelve wines starting at £9.95, five of which can be had by the glass. Let's have more places like the Sportsman.

In 2003 The Sportsman and the Harrises were awarded the prestigious Pub Operator of the Year Catey by Caterer and Hotelkeeper, judge John McNamara, Chief Executive of the British Institute of Innkeeping commented, "It's definitely in my top ten best pubs. If I lived in the area I'd be there every Sunday with my family. Both the food and atmosphere are brilliant."