Three Fishes, The

Owned by Nigel Haworth and Craig Bancroft of Northcote Manor fame and described as "a pub as it would have been 40 years ago", but with the vital addition of an excellent tastebud-tickling menu. The survivals include traditional slate floors, a medley of mellowed wooden furniture and log fires, as Granny used to say, 'with heart'. There is an air of relaxed enjoyment on the part of a clientele that covers most relevant age groups, though Ozzy would not feel at home here so book now. Actually booking is not too much of a problem with 130 covers, but the place is highly popular and our recommendation is not to leave it to chance.

Supported by a kitchen presided over by David Edward, who brings a distinguished culinary pedigree in his wake, the menu contains a whole range of locally sourced or related dishes starting with nibbles which might be Ascroft's deep fried cauliflower fritters, curried and wicked mayonnaise before moving on to starters of Winnie Carrick's corned Goosnargh chicken liver pate, golden raisins, Cumberland sauce and toasted organic bread, Andrew Ireland's Horseshoe black pudding with English mustard and onion relish, or warm Morecambe Bay shrimps with blade mace butter and toasted muffin.

They have 29 suppliers all told and their names are invoked with glee, which is good for everybody concerned. Amongst main courses you will find a House Specialty - the Elm Wood platter of house-cured meats, pickled brisket, ox tongue, organic honey roast ham, Walling Farm collared pork, homemade pickles, piccalilli and organic bread, a real steal at £8.50.

The Three Fishes pie consists of Fleetwood fish and seawater prawns baked with mashed potato and sprinkled simply with Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire cheese, or there's Jim Curwen's Bowland Forest cottage pie with soused strong onions and brown sauce. For a grill that will set you up for the day order the rump of British white beef, hung for five weeks, with real chips in dripping and a choice of peppered or Bearnaise sauce.

The heather reared Bowland lamb contributes to a Lancashire hotpot with pickled red cabbage, and vegetarians are well looked after with Leagram's organic, creamy, curd cheese and onion pie, covered in short crust pastry with sour creak jackets and a plum tomato salad.

Puddings maintain the same robust momentum with Lythe Valley damson jelly and whipped custard, and chocolate and orange pudding with clotted cream amongst the favourites.

An excellent wine list reveals the work of somebody who knows and loves wine. Junior members of the family are by no means forgotten, with their own menu and distractions to keep them happy. The Three Fishes is all about the future of eating out in Britain.

Their Website, a model of its kind, embraces a broad church, with due homage paid to all concerned in making this attractive country pub into a place of pilgrimage for those who like the genuine article. And find out more about Northcote Manor by visiting their listing.