Three Horseshoes Inn, The

Comfortably situated in this thriving part of the East Anglian countryside, and handy for Cambridge, the Three Horseshoes, run by Ronan and Jane, flashes its thatched roofs at passers-by many of whom are instantly bewitched by its cosy charms. Inside they will find a good flock of locals, all part of the warm welcome that combines unpretentious and homely comfort with the feeling that somebody actually cares about your wellbeing, sadly not always a feature of some of our less well served places to rest and dine.

Five bedrooms and the Old Forge provide relaxing accommodation with fittings to a high standard. Three rooms are located within the main building, whilst two further luxurious ensuites are to be found in the detached 17th century fairy tale cottage, with a secluded paved patio, seating and lawn. The Old Forge is a self contained studio chalet with secluded private garden which doubles as a holiday letting accommodation and self catering suite. Special value winter packages are offered for the weekends starting with a bottle of champagne on arrival on Friday or Thursday. Given the variety of attractions surrounding the Inn this is an ideal base for the perfect get-away weekend.

Under Head chef Daniel Walker menus change but on a typical February day from amongst six starters look to find a warm salad of black pudding, cured streaky bacon, topped with a poached egg, or pan fried veal sweetbreads with celeriac puree finished with pan jus. Something a little different, well what about sesame crusted King scallops and chicory marmalade?

Lincolnshire is not far away so don't be surprised to find amongst the main courses a char-grilled Lincolnshire Red rib-eye steak, Stilton and shallot butter, hand cut chips and a baked field mushroom, but then nor is Grasmere Farm, the products of which provide pork belly, twice-cooked and crisp, with Scottish black pudding, potato rosti and cider and leek cream sauce.

Not far away is the riverside pub where many years ago six of us dined handsomely off guinea fowl and other dishes for just short of £11 - and no, that is not each. Ever since I have a fond recollection for the bird and here it is, oven baked and wrapped in chicory and River Farm oak smoked bacon with parsnip chips and a sage and onion veloute.

Vegetables are given the sort of attention that they deserve, so we have creamy Savoy cabbage with pink peppercorns, tripe cooked chips and leek gratin for example. And when the diet police come knocking at the door there will be, to paraphrase Tennyson, one short sharp word in reply.

A daily blackboard lists the day's fish and other specials. As so often in deep country places Sunday is celebrated in unassailable style and from plenty of choices a meal might start with crisp smoked mackerel on puy lentils pulled through rocket, roast sirloin of Lincolnshire Red with a full array of trimmings and something nice and fruity from the desserts.

A relatively short but perfectly satisfying wine list travels the world with plenty of bottles by the glass. Their Website is a mine of information, and the local history section could support a school syllabus. Me, I think I'll stick to the guinea fowl.