Three Horseshoes, The

The latest addition to the Spice Inns group, and a haven of country chic that has retained its individuality and charm. Its location, just outside the busy town of Harpenden gives it that subtle quality of escape from town to country, combined with the quality and standards that are sometimes associated with a more competitive setting.

Size wise the pub offers a good compromise between the two extremes and with a 40 cover restaurant never seems to overpower. The décor helps, with whitewashed walls, light oak furniture and welcoming soft brown leather sofas that offer a comfortable welcome to the human frame, in whatever shape it may come.

All this against the background of genuine antiquity conjured up by the original inglenook fireplaces, and beams that might well have come from some 17th century sailing vessel at the end of its useful seafaring life.

Lovers of modern European food will take special delight in the versatile menu. Like many a good chef before him Tony takes delight in what nature offers, with special attention paid to locally sourced ingredients of the best quality. From his own garden, conveniently handy right outside his kitchen, comes a wide range of herbs that will reinvigorate the palate.

Amongst the starters expect to find a Moorish crayfish, red onion and herb risotto, sautéed wild mushrooms on toasted brioche topped with a poached egg, or terrine of foie gras, pigeon and duck. Main courses offer up saddle of rabbit wrapped in Parma ham, served with cabbage, bacon and a red wine jus, or pan fried calves liver and grilled back bacon served with horseradish mash and onion gravy.

I tend to think there is no real point in settling for a dessert unless something really wicked is to be had, and Tony, bless him, does not miss the opportunity, so why should you? Sticky toffee pudding with hot toffee sauce is one of those puddings that has become an accepted classic, but for something a little different try his pear and cinnamon crumble with vanilla ice cream, both with a good indulgence rating.

Those who argue that good food is pretty pointless without decent wine as an accompaniment have a point, but no cause for worry at The Three Horseshoes, where an impressive list of wines from the world over give ample choice for gourmet and those on a tight budget, alike.

The case for the upgrading of old established pubs, inns, call them what you will, is a strong one. The fact that the process is attracting new money from people prepared to view their investment in the longer term is also a welcome sign.

For further details about The Three Horseshoes do have a look at their Website.