A real gem in the star-studded culinary hot-spot that is Norfolk. Hearty country cooking characterises the dishes that attract those who like their food to be at one with the local produce, unfussed and in surroundings that are bucolic rather than demanding. Three Horseshoes scores on all counts, especially the gas lighting, scrubbed pine and stone slab floors. For the more up-to-date there's a 1930's one-armed bandit adapted for the new currency.

The fish, game and seafood of Norfolk make regular appearances with Warham mussel soup, soused sprats and braised pheasant popular in season. The puddings are legendary and those who yearn for such hearty delicacies as spotted dick, golden syrup sponge and toffee apple crumble will not go away unsatisfied.

Their range of East Anglian real ales is impressively daunting, and in summer the local Whin Hill cider provides an agreeable alternative to taking long healthy walks on the not far distant beaches after lunch. Bookings and credit cards are not accepted. Truly this is a spot for connoisseurs of the unpretentious.