Tin Goose, The

Tin Goose represents a major leap for BAA and Geronimo Inns, who have teamed up to provide the travelling public with a kind of restaurant flight simulator. Built round the legendary Tri-motor, the first all-metal plane ever created to fly passengers, made by Ford, and now recreated in spirit at Heathrow, the world's busiest airport and base to over 90 airlines, Tin Goose brings to life the pioneering spirit and luxury of those early days.

Passengers enduring interminable airport waits will find in Tin Goose a haven from the stress and strain, reminders of the days of early air travel in the form of leather trunks and port-holes, and first class pampering in the way of furnishing, refreshment and service. All of this - and more - is accomplished within a space of over 4,100 feet, encompassed by two vast glass walls overlooking an exterior balcony. The food sets new standards for the airport variety with more than a suggestion of gourmet approach, starting with the breakfast, where porridge served with golden syrup, however much it may scandalise the Scots serves to make it acceptable to the rest of us.

The English breakfast is a symphony in self-indulgence; Tin Goose is one of the few places I know where they don't suspend breakfast at some outrageously early hour, and then there's always eggs Benedict as well. The smoked salmon salad is served with guacamole and rocket, and an excellent charcuterie platter comes with chutney and foccacia. Other delights are Tin Goose fishcake, warm asparagus and dolcelatte tart, or ham, egg and wedges. Chocolate fondant with crème fraiche or baked lemon tart rounds the meal off with a flourish.

Despite dire injunctions about the perils of mixing flying and the demon drink, many still persist, and are even more likely to do so when they see the Tin Goose wine list, particularly as many of the wines listed have helpful little notes intended to enhance your pleasure. How else would I have known that a Louis Latour Chardonnay Grand Ardeche 2002 simply loves chicken and leek pie? To cap it all there is a wonderful institution known as the Coffee Runner who will bring you unlimited coffee all day long at £1 a call. We have allowed £12 as the average cost, though a full meal with wine would clearly come out at rather more.