Across the road from Smithfield's, London's famous meat market, you'll find the aptly named Smiths of Smithfield restaurant set over three floors. Each of the floors has a slightly different décor and atmosphere, from the informal ground floor that's open for breakfast and becomes a bar by night, to the rooftop restaurant, which is their fine dining area with a superb menu put together by owner John Torode, formerly head chef at Mezzo, with views over the city, there is also an excellent private room. The setting is modern and the food includes first class meat dishes, including from some rare breeds supplied by Gilbert McTaggart of Islay Butchers and others, and hung for a minimum of 26 days; but there is also plenty for vegetarians too. Try the roast leg of lamb with goat's cheese mash and you won't be disappointed I assure you.

Reviewed by Linda Buttle