Treehouse in Alnwick Garden, The

Efforts by the Duchess of Northumberland to transform the grounds and gardens at her husband's ancestral home in Northumberland into a kind of Versailles of the North have met with varying responses. It would seem that one of her aims has been to capitalise on the unusual nature of the site with such responses as massive water-works, a poison garden and - a Tree House. Nobody really expected an ordinary tree house and what has emerged is nothing short of a candidate for wonder of the world.

The finished product, built round 16 mature lime trees, contains a number of what might be termed facilities, of which the most important is the restaurant, 60 feet up, and distinguished by woodwork that offers at first sight an impression of being the work of a demented DIY enthusiast, but is of course much more subtle than that.

Alnwick Castle, a place of gothic gloom and threatening battlements, has achieved outstanding publicity by becoming Hogwarts School in its spare time, with the predictable result that large numbers of wannabee Harry Potters can be found there when the days are clement.

Given the capacity of tourist/visitor destinations to get their catering wrong it is vastly refreshing to discover that Her Grace has got it more than ordinarily right, and what might be loosely described as a cross between a good brasserie and a gastropub has produced a menu that should certainly get you swinging round the trees, perhaps not the sort of remark one should make in these safety-conscious days.

Amongst the starters look to find crispy lobster and mango spring rolls with chilli jam, or whisky-smoked salmon on walnut bread, with crème fraiche. Main courses could include pan-fried Alnwick Estate venison fillet, rosti and Drambuie and peppercorn jus. For the vegetarians a delicate pumpkin and coconut curry and coriander sauce makes an attractive alternative.

Puddings may yield a raspberry and Drambuie Eton Mess or a warm treacle tart and vanilla ice cream. A decent wine list compliments the excellent table, and overall the Duchess has yet another success to her credit.