On the best of English days it is possible to imagine that you are sitting on the terrace in Jamaica, or Bermuda even, for here is yet another of these Cornish wonders with views that are breathtaking and superlative-draining. Your problem here is to penetrate the determined phalanx of residents, who naturally have priority for tables, but you can be lucky and a call in advance is not a bad idea. The menu, which changes daily, is a miracle of never-ending contrasts as you are taken from one part of the globe to another, but such is the choice you are unlikely to have your hopes dashed. That stern critic of the eager hotelier, Paddy Burt, writing in the DT, suggests that after a protracted search she found what she sought here at Tregildry, and it extended well into the dining room. A glittering galaxy of Awards supports her opinion. A nifty wine list, as well travelled as the menu, with house wine at £11.75.