With the decline of farming and the increase of leisure and enjoyment of the good things in life there are an increasing number of old farmhouses offering quality and value in idyllic surroundings. Almost without exception they never disappoint because they are run by people whose hearts are in the right place to start with.

Perched on the edge of the Gwaun Valley in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, Tregynon measures up to that standard, making no pretensions to haute cuisine and concentrating on homely well-prepared food in rustic surroundings. Menus are never the same two days running, with dishes like rack of Pembrokeshire Lamb (their speciality) topped with an herb crust, gently cooked in the oven on the rack and served as a rack with a rosemary and sloe gin sauce or trout fillets lightly pan-fried and served with a courgette and basil sauce.

Their puddings are absolutely wonderful - with choices such as light chocolate roulade filled with cream and served with a raspberry coulis; boozy bread and butter pudding, laced with rum and served warm with cream or vanilla ice-cream or mixed berry fruit crème brûlée. Vegetarian dishes are also a speciality.

An interesting and capable wine list more than meets the challenge and decent house wines are at £11.95. They suggest 'children under eight' will not appreciate the menus.

Since 2005 they have changed the operation of the restaurant in that you now have to be a Member of their Diners' Circle to make a booking. Bookings are therefore on a prior booking only basis. Such bookings are made for the exclusive use of Tregynon, which is 'non-smoking' throughout, for a private dinner party usually of between 4 and 12 people.

Full Members and their partner get a beneficial rate (£27.95 for a four course meal) and - subject to availability - can bring as many guests as they like (guest rate £29.50). Full Membership is an initial once only payment of £15. Only one booking is taken on any evening so members can guarantee having the exclusive use of Tregynon throughout the evening.