The Trout at Lower Wolvercote has a strong literary heritage and has been immortalised in Colin Dexter's Inspector Morse novels. This connection runs much deeper with writers of the calibre of Lewis Carroll and CS Lewis, having sat on the banks of the Thames, inspired by the relentlessly moving waters. Truly, pubs such as The Trout are part of the very fabric of British life.

The wonderful setting by the bridge opens out into a large terrace overlooking the banks of the river. Taking a stroll alongside up to Point Meadow is a great way to spend an idyllic afternoon. The interiors too are not to be outdone and after being restored, the exquisite country pub has combined the traditional with the modern, stone fired ovens and real log fires vibe well with deep leather seating and teak furnishing to create a comfortable haven. The willow trees provide nature's umbrellas, giving shelter for al fresco dining.

Contemporary inns such as these usually share a number of characteristics. An important feature is space, preferably a restaurant where you are comfortable, not over-awed, and not sharing elbow space with the next table, however sociable they may be. Good, too, to have a roomy and well stocked bar where you can actually get served without undue delay. After all, drinking should be taken seriously. If a pub offers all of these, and is in a good location, there is little reason in today's economic climate why it should not flourish. The Warren, a real country pub dating from the 1850s, just outside Wokingham on the Forest Road, provides ample evidence that this is true.

But of course there are other factors, not least of which is the food and drink. The term 'gastropub' covers a multitude of blessings, and it is possible to see influences of brasserie, bistro, restaurant and even café at work within the great gastro umbrella. So expect to find no one single cuisine, but a blend designed to provide something for everybody, no matter what their treat may be. To catch the right note of contemporary sociability there are sharing plates, antipasti of Italian meats with dolcelatte, stuffed peppers, marinated vegetables and warm stone-baked flatbreads, or Mediterranean mezze of hummus, roasted vegetables, fregola, tzatziki, feta, spinach and ricotta pâté with warm flatbreads.

Amongst the appetisers there is always freshly made soup, lamb koftas, mint yoghurt, kohlrabi, cumin and carrot salad, or spiced crab with avocado, prawns, ginger and pink grapefruit. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer pang pang chicken with pak choi, satay, cashew nuts and cucumber; for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecans, mango, bacon with orange and pomegranate vinaigrette are a real treat.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of pomodoro, mozzarella, oregano and basil, the rustica with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats' cheese and cherry tomatoes, or the piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños. Pastas include bucatini with salmon, chilli, almonds, red pepper pesto, pecorino and rocket, or tagliatelle with slow cooked Bolognaise and parmesan.

The rotisserie dishes for hearty eaters are worth trying and choices include spit chicken, calves liver, rib-eye steak or fillet steak. These are all served with a choice from amongst frites, aioli, black pudding, cracked black pepper, béarnaise or red wine and shallot jus among others. For the big event the roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta, button onions and baby potatoes measures up well to any occasion. The smoked haddock fishcakes with curry Hollandaise, mango, tomato, coriander and red onion salad is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes Belgium chips and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. From a list of attractive desserts choose between a Eton mess or apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard. There is also a selection of cheeses to please the gourmets.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website.  Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.