Trout Inn

The Trout at Lower Wolvercote has a strong literary heritage and has been immortalised in Colin Dexter's Inspector Morse novels. This connection runs much deeper with writers of the calibre of Lewis Carroll and CS Lewis, having sat on the banks of the Thames, inspired by the relentlessly moving waters. Truly, pubs such as The Trout are part of the very fabric of British life.

The wonderful setting by the bridge opens out into a large terrace overlooking the banks of the river. Taking a stroll alongside up to Point Meadow is a great way to spend an idyllic afternoon. The interiors too are not to be outdone and after being restored, the exquisite country pub has combined the traditional with the modern, stone fired ovens and real log fires vibe well with deep leather seating and teak furnishing to create a comfortable haven. The willow trees provide nature's umbrellas, giving shelter for al fresco dining.

Contemporary inns such as these usually share a number of characteristics. An important feature is space, preferably a restaurant where you are comfortable, not over-awed, and not sharing elbow space with the next table, however sociable they may be. Good, too, to have a roomy and well stocked bar where you can actually get served without undue delay. After all, drinking should be taken seriously. If a pub offers all of these, and is in a good location, there is little reason in today's economic climate why it should not flourish. The Warren, a real country pub dating from the 1850s, just outside Wokingham on the Forest Road, provides ample evidence that this is true.

But of course there are other factors, not least of which is the food and drink. The term 'gastropub' covers a multitude of blessings, and it is possible to see influences of brasserie, bistro, restaurant and even café at work within the great gastro umbrella. So expect to find no one single cuisine, but a blend designed to provide something for everybody, no matter what their treat may be. To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, Spanish tapas of Serrano ham, Manchego, sardines, chorizo and tortilla, a baked Camembert with rustic bread, Greek mezze with taramasalata with humus, tzatziki, feta and flatbread, or a pizzette with garlic, rocket and Parmesan.

Amongst the starters, touchingly referred to as 'little dishes', there is freshly made soup, grilled asparagus with poached egg, parmesan and rocket, crab cakes with mango, chilli and coriander salsa, or caramelised onion tart. Look, too, for Black Pearl scallops when the market is right. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer a traditional Caesar salad with chicken, marinated anchovies and parmesan, or for the seafood fiends some seared prawns with chorizo, chilli, spinach and lemon crème fraiche. A recent addition to the menu is the delicious coconut chicken, with spinach, coriander, mango chutney and chilli salsa.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic Margherita of tomato, mozzarella and basil, or the challenging diavolo spiced chicken with peppadew peppers, chilli and tabasco. Pastas include fettucine with salmon, prawns, coconut, spring onions and chilli, chef's choice risotto, or penne with crab, tomato, and pepperonata. For the big event, there is always a fish of the day on request.

The grills for hearty eaters are worth trying and choices include pork chops and salmon among others. These are all served with frites, garlic butter, brandy peppercorn sauce, béarnaise, burnt tomato and onion salsa or mango and chilli. For the big event there is always a fish of the day on request. The steak burger with cheese, onion and mustard mayo is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. There is lovely rack of lamb with chorizo as well as venison and wild mushroom or the creamy risotto.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes buttered new potatoes, Belgium frites and mayo, and greens, leeks and peas. For those who have to be lashed to a plank to induce them to eat vegetables, try the honey-roasted carrots, altogether different from the all too often bland variety.

For desserts resort to the blackboard, where there is always a good display, often with some of the local cheeses to set the buffs alight. The Trout Inn stocks a wide range of beers, both well-loved draught ales and Continental lagers, with bottled from further afield, including South African sauvignon blanc 'The Siren' and  'Terracotta' from Italy. The wine list covers plenty of territory from traditional clarets to Pinot Grigio, and champagne by the glass or bottle is always available. Service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website.  Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.