Tufton Bailiffehouse, The

This shows what can happen to a rather run down and tired pub when a fresh face, with a willing pair of hands and some imagination, takes over.

Now you will find antique furniture and service at your table rather than standing at the bar, and a fine range of extremely individual beers, in fact their proud claim is that if the beer's advertised on TV you won't be able to get it there, so expect Pilsner Urquell, De Koninck and Black Sheep.

They offer a short, but regularly changing, menu of fresh produce sourced from local small producers; dishes might include mussels baked and stuffed with garlic, parmesan and crumbs or a plate of smoked, air-cured, meats and salamis, served with pickled pears.

This might be followed by wild boar and venison sausages with red cabbage; grilled organic chicken breast on a porcini and Marsala reduction or local partridge pot-roasted in the Italian fashion, and finishing with chocolate hazelnut panna cotta with crystallised violets and espresso coffee sauce or tiramisu chocolate oblivion - ask them about it, not me but it sounds wonderful!

The place is totally non-smoking and the food is wheat and gluten free - definitely one for the individual, but their enterprise should be encouraged.