Part of St Martin's Lane Hotel, Tuscan serves modern classics with a twist. Renowned for its sharp image and business-like attitudes, the deal is quite simple, you get three courses for £20, plus a 'complimentary' cocktail. Should you be so unwise as to stay at your table longer than two hours you will be asked to move on, presumably the fruits of bitter experience in the past which, given the location, is understandable.

Start with a Tuscan Caesar salad before tackling the excellent smoked fillet of salmon with pumpkin gnocchi Napoletana. Their gazpacho is highly spoken of and the quality of the intensity of staff chatter as they serve you is impressive even by the standard expected in such circumstances.