I suppose it should be possible to write about Tuscany without making even passing reference to Gwyneth Paltrow, but when, during a six day working stay in Scarborough, while filming Possession, the lady enjoyed her dinner there for five nights and compromised with only a take-away from Tuscany on the sixth night (filming running late?), there has to be something cooking.

And indeed there is and it's mainly unspoiled Italian traditional with such delights as six scallops in a Pernod sauce, or Mediterranean prawns char-grilled and served spatch-cocked. Follow these with a whole seabass cooked in foil or calf's liver alla Veneziana, all perfectly cooked with minimum fuss and maximum care and in portions which bring the tears - of joy - to your eyes. Nor will the prices spoil your pleasure - quite the reverse.

House wine, from a worthy list, is £12.50