Two Fat Ladies is located in the West End of Glasgow, conveniently close to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and University. Respected and popular, it can be a very buzzy place and since they only have seven tables making a reservation does seem a good idea.

The smoked salmon marinated in gin and lime repays attention and for those who can't stand gin the smoked haddock fishcakes make an excellent substitute. Oysters and mussels from Loch Etive feature in various guises and at least have the assurance of a confirmed origin.

As might be expected some wonderful fish dishes appear amongst the main courses, though perversely my eye caught the medallions of Angus beef with haggis and black pudding and a green peppercorn sauce, and suddenly the fish took a back seat. Pudding was their date and walnut sponge with butterscotch, a happy throwback to the days of Granny's kitchen.

As the demand for specialist ingredients grows, stocks diminish and farmed alternatives from all over the world increase, worries grow about their effects on our health. In many cases one feels instinctively that the risks are overstated, but it would be a brave man who propagated that view. Restaurant owners could do much to reassure clients, meanwhile beware the obviously too cheap options.