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The Peacock has recently been acquired by Lord John Manners, from nearby Haddon Hall, one of the most evocative stately homes in Britain in the view of many. A thorough refurbishment has been carried out and there are 16 comfortable en suite bedrooms.

Head Chef Matthew Rushton has installed a menu that may well take its inspiration from His Lordship's table, but even if it does not it is greatly to be commended. It certainly is mindful of local ingredients and the evening menu could offer wild mushroom consommé with wild rice, a Dorset crab with vegetables in the Greek style, or smoked haddock agnelotte with quail's egg, peas and Parmesan cream. Main courses mostly have that pulling quality, but alas no assiette of them, though starters and puddings versions are available. Marlin tournedos, crab risotto, spinach, and Shimeji mushrooms with red wine sauce are popular, with beef fillet and venison haunch not far behind.

A classic orange bavarois sets the pace for the desserts, and should you ask for a savoury you will be met not by a blank stare but a proper Welsh rarebit with pickled walnuts. Full marks, chaps! The wine list is every bit as competent as the cooking.

The East Lodge Hotel has a stunning location, set in ten acres of beautifully landscaped gardens in Rowsley, and it's indeed hard to resist the unspoiled and rustic charm of this gorgeous hotel. Rooms are furnished with every conceivable comfort and are elegant and romantic, adding to the allure, while the 2 AA rosette winning restaurant entices you with its delicious modern British cuisine and meets with grand success.

The ambience at the restaurant is unassuming and friendly, perfect for a leisurely meal which could include a starter of smooth chicken liver and vintage port parfait with caramelised shallot marmalade and toasted rye bread. The main course does ample justice, with fillet of North Sea cod, deep-fried in beer batter with hand cut triple fried chips, chunky tartare sauce and mushy peas, topping the list. To end, there's the delice of dark and white chocolate with aged rum poached apricots and salad of oranges. There is a good range of choices amongst the wines at East Lodge which can be paired comfortably with the meal.