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Formerly of the Hare and Hounds of this parish, Shaun and Emma Davis are now well settled in at the White Horse and bringing to it a touch of the same qualities that they invested into their previous charge. Concentrating on food which is known-fresh they extend this to the preparation of the mainly modern English cuisine which goes down so well with their faithful clientele. In 2004 The White Horse was Les Routiers Dining Pub of the Year.

A popular starter is the charcuterie plate with a celeriac and caper remoulade, though it is often a short head only behind the spicy fishcakes and sweet chilli sauce. The meat comes from Chesterton Farm Butchers near Cirencester so the rib eye steak with a wild mushroom and cracked black pepper sauce has a well proven background. Likewise the fish from Looe, delivered twice a week, encourages faith in that ever popular dish, a whole grilled lemon sole with caramelised cherry tomatoes and lemon and dill butter. The osso bucco, slowly braised with roasted shallots, makes a delightful meal for those wearying of steaks, be they buffalo, Angus or just plain old ostrich, but then back to basics is essentially a hobby for the jaded, be it palate or politics.

Beignets are very much in the shadows these days, so it is encouraging to spy the hot version served with white chocolate and crushed praline. Should something more fruity be on the wish list the warm plum and frangipane tart with vanilla ice cream may appeal, before reaching for the coffee pot. House wines at £10.75 introduce a wine list which, though relatively short, has been selected with care and imagination.

The intriguingly called Egypt Mill Hotel, formerly a paper mill, is said to take its name from the immigrants who came from Egypt and settled on the banks of the river, possibly to provide labour for the mill itself. From today's perspective, as well as providing facilities for what are euphemistically called 'functions' in today's terminology, there is eating at two levels, both physically and gastronomically. Down below in amongst the working bits of the mill is the bistro where food of the same idiom, but served more simply is offered to a marginally more relaxed clientele.

Upstairs we have the restaurant amidst a welter of ancient beams, with traditional cooking supplied by Chef Jason Lemming and his hardworking band of culinary brothers (and sisters). A starter here could be the boudin of chicken and herbs served on a chive and garlic pommes puree. A swordfish steak, if not a signature dish, seems to be popular and most, if not all, the fish is brought in by special delivery to ensure maximum freshness. There is a multiplicity of desserts which might lead some to settle for the cheeseboard. Staff are very willing, cheerful and polite. The wine list has certainly travelled round a bit and house wine is at £9.90.