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This ancient inn has a long history of lifting the hearts of travellers and visitors with the excellence of its victuals and warmth of its welcome. It is, of course, for debate as to whether or not the Cotswolds produces more congenial hotels and pubs with restaurants than anywhere else in Britain but I know where my money would go.

Sarah Payton and her team go in for traditional cooking, in line with everything else in the hotel and concentrate on basics rather than flowery exercises in self-expression. A starter could be selected from smoked duck with sweet onion and Pancetta tart, a poached egg and Bearnaise sauce, or black pudding and cheddar cheese with hash browns, apple puree and a mustard butter sauce, or more simply pan fried chicken livers with onion marmalade.

Braised duck legs served with Dubonnet and orange jus make a refreshing change from the more traditional breast of duck, and the roast rump of beef backed up with root vegetables, parsnip puree and roast potatoes does favours to everybody concerned. A weakness for anything to do with passion fruit would lead me to the soufflé of that ilk, even further enlivened with poached rhubarb and creme fraiche made with limes, but should that temptation fail to move you there are plenty of delightful options.

The Manor at Lower Slaughter, a magnificent country house with its roots deep in Cotswold history, offers a timeless atmosphere rich in tradition and with a hint of the theatrical that makes a visit there an occasion to remember. A manor house occupied the site before the Norman conquest and the present house was largely rebuilt in 1658 by Valentine Strong, chief stonemason for St Paul's Cathedral under Sir Christopher Wren. Country house features such as flowers, substantial drapings, candlelight, comfortable furniture made for real people rather than midgets - you get the picture?

The food follows an up to date approach with time honoured dishes, some given a modern boost, but seldom out of recognition, all served with a flourish by staff who give every appearance of enjoying their work, probably because they have been trained how to do it, thus confidence follows. Chef David Kelman is more than playing his part in bringing this splendid hotel back to life. So also is the cellar with its stock of around six hundred carefully selected wines from round the whole world. No children under twelve years old.

Another of those wonderful old country houses that have passed from private ownership to become havens of peace and comfort for a wider audience. The menu will suit those who have a preference for good recognisable, possibly even comfort food, and it is certainly none the worse for that.

Starters could include a warm pigeon salad with bacon and walnuts, progressing to a grilled lemon sole with citrus and caper sauce or slow roasted half shoulder of lamb with honey and mint. Desserts include several of the usual suspects, amongst them brown bread ice cream, sticky toffee pudding and a good combination of cheeses.

Such is the fine architecture in the Cotswolds that there are any number of hotels with good restaurants with similar classic fronts to the Noel Arms. Another thing which they tend to have in common is a good classic approach to the job, resulting in high standards and a sense of reliability which must rate highly by comparison with other parts of the country. The Noel Arms is no exception. It has a long and honourable history and King Charles II passed this way during the Civil War. Indeed, if he showed up with a band of supporters today it seems likely that they could be very adequately equipped weapons-wise from off the walls of the Noel Arms. This contrasts quite markedly with the delightful restaurant, light airy and extremely well fitted out.

Many of the ingredients are sourced locally from the Vale of Evesham and combine to produce a menu of distinction with dishes that are light yet filling and tasty. This is a place for those who have some regard for the relationship between their figures and what they eat, whatever Dr Atkins might have said before his regrettable accident in New York.