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Most people would agree that the people who visit an inn play a major role in giving it the atmosphere it exudes. Take The Lion Inn as a perfect example, known as a warm and friendly refuge thanks to the efforts of the owners, and local farmers and characters of all ages who have made the inn their second home.

Owned and run by Simon and Dianne Smith and located on the Welsh borders in the village of Woonton, the 17th century inn is a fine place to enjoy good food and drink, views of the Black Mountains, and maybe a game of croquet, draughts and giant noughts and crosses or quoits in the beer garden.

The restaurant offers dishes from around the world all created using fresh local produce. The appealing low ceiling bar, warmed by log fires in the winter, gives guests a chance to choose from three real ales, local cider, spirits, and wine.

Coming round the sort of corner that most people slow down for, you suddenly light upon The Stagg Inn, a modest but solid enough house with creeper clad walls and an air of having been there a long time.

Some day perhaps somebody will do a piece about the migration of notable chefs from the hotbeds of culinary competition to more peaceable and rural haunts. If so they will surely note that a number seem to have made their way to Welsh border country, and so it is for Steve Reynolds, who began his training under Michelle Roux before returning home to his native Herefordshire where, to everyone's delight, he became the recipient of the first Michelin Star to be awarded to a British pub.

A few stick-in-the-muds may have thought it demeaning that a Star should be so given; most welcomed a new breadth of approach to the Award. Expect to find on the menu seared scallops with parsnip puree and black pepper oil, or pan-fried foie gras with the local Pembridge apple jelly. No great culinary displays here, just sound local produce cooked so as to remain recognisable and highly enjoyable.

The pattern continues with fillet of Herefordshire beef with red wine sauce and celeriac purée, or herbed free-range Springfield chicken breast with potato fondant. A crispy duck leg with cider sauce vies with smoked haddock on mustard mash in the bar snacks department. A trendy wine list brings together wines from France, Uruguay and the Lebanon, as well as some more conventional sourcings.

The local suppliers also contribute some very nifty cheeses, with beers and ciders calculated to ensure that you have little option but to resort to one of the two comfy en-suite rooms above the pub, or if you are looking for somewhere a touch less busy, The Old Vicarage, a stone's throw away will do the job nicely.

Penrhos is a 700 year old manor farm, now converted to a delightful hotel and restaurant. The restaurant is requested "Organic" and was the first to register in the U.K. "Penrhos" is so healthy that a weekend there probably does not count against your allotted time on earth" - A.A Gill Sunday Times.

At Penrhos they make a big occasion of New Year. As the old year dies tea and cakes are srved by the log fire, before drinks followed by a five course organic supper set against a musical background in the medieval cruck hall, with champagne to welcome in the New Year. The following day is recovery time, perhaps a gentle walk, before a four course organic supper, leaviing around midday on the 2nd. All-in rates start at £420 per couple sharing a double en-suite room.