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The Bell Inn represents yet another example of the upheaval moving through the world of cheffing, which goes Michelin-starred chef moves from London, sets up ace restaurant in a more relaxed part of the country, equals prosperity without stress. But another stage is now being added. Having established the upmarket country cousin, feels it necessary to add on a bucolic pub or two, where quality food is served in more rustic surroundings.

So Claude Bosi having set up Hibiscus in Ludlow with great élan, sends an away team to take over The Bell which is now making the culinary headlines. Robert Walker and his brigade are offering dishes such as Savoy cabbage and smoked bacon soup, and roast beef that is a gourmet's delight. His take on such good old fashioned items as scampi or sausage and mash is enough to make any others seem, well, just a little bit disappointing.

The gastropub movement, of which The Bell is one, is still making its collective mind up. Perhaps like the old brasserie it will leave room for widely varying interpretations. If that is true The Bell is in the top flight.

Frequently visited by tourists on the Black and White Trail, The New Inn remains essentially a pub for the locals, with sound reliable food always available. Herefordshire is possibly one of the least spoiled of England's counties and if you are looking for the traditional there are few better places to go.

Happily this also applies to the question of food at large and Herefordshire folk like their tucker uncomplicated and plentiful. Home to such delights as Tyrell's crisps, perhaps the best ever produced in England, Dunkerton's Herefordshire cider and a fascinating range of cheeses it is hardly surprising that at lunchtime their Welshman's lunch is a real hit. Yes, Offa's Dyke is still there, but it's no longer manned by belligerent locals, and the flow of trade and hospitality is unimpeded.

In the evening the temp changes with starters say, of fishcakes made with smoked haddock and spring onion, followed by tasty pork, apple and cider casserole, rounding off with treacle tart.

The boundaries of the pub are pretty lacking in definition and on the right days expect to find customers staying loose, possibly straying into the nearby Farmers' Market, where a wonderful range of locally produced food and drink is on offer. Those alarmed by scurrilous reports of the dire after effects of local cider could always play safe and enjoy extensive draughts of Herefordshire apple juice

An 18th century coaching inn, The Bateman Arms is situated in the small village of Shobdon, a few miles from the Welsh border. Retaining its rustic charm, the restaurant has a striking and unusual design, with old cobbled paving at the entrance leading to a dining area full of character, with oak beamed ceiling, old furniture, a large fireplace and an old bar to one end. The restaurant offers a menu of locally produced and sourced dishes in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

The food choices vary from light snacks of sandwiches with a variety of fillings such as ham and tuna mayo; Atlantic prawn cocktail with cocktail sauce served with salad leaves to steaks of sirloin, rump and fillet with onions and mushrooms. Main dishes include lamb shank served with mashed potato and roasted vegetables, and Shobdon sausage and mash, with peas and onion gravy. Vegetarian dishes such as roasted bell peppers stuffed with mushrooms, tomatoes and rice, topped with Herefordshire goat's cheese are also available.

Serving a wide range of alcoholic drinks and beverages, this well-stocked pub ensures there is something for everyone.

There's good news for history enthusiasts in Pembridge, the lovely village near Leominster that has stood for well over a 1000 years. Located in this historic village is the Kings house, a charming country inn that was originally owned by a wealthy merchant named Robert King. Run by Stuart and Jan - veterans in the hospitality industry, one discovers that the place is as enchanting for its culinary expertise as it is for its rustic, historic appeal.

A good place to go to on a special occasion, the hosts make sure that there are ample personal touches that ensure the experience is unique and memorable. The home-made beef and ale pie, ratatouille crumble and grilled fillets of sea bass are top of the charts, with oodles of other equally mouth-watering inventions. The wine list is impressive and sets the mood for a long, relaxed meal-time. Make sure there's room for one of Jan's special desserts and the Kings House experience would be officially complete.