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Pizza Express remains a hugely popular bedrock of casual eating. Its popularity is testimony to the fact that across the country, they have restaurants where you will always be guaranteed a good nosh, with children's tastes being well catered for.

Pizza Express has gone even more Roman, and following the success of that particular example of listening to their public have introduced Romana pizzas, including the scorching Etna and the hearty Siciliana.

These pizzas are now thinner, bigger and crispier, and if that sounds like a marketing line, it is. However, unlike many such lines, this one is true, and their quality is always consistent, though cleverly they have still managed to retain a homemade feel to their pizzas.

As an alternative to pizza, try their pollo pesto - cavatappi pasta with torn chicken breast, mushrooms, red onions and mozzarella in a creamy gruyere, parmesan and pesto sauce and finished with grana padano - or the niçoise salad with mixed leaves, yellowfin tuna, free range egg, green beans, potatoes and tomatoes with olives, anchovies, capers and house dressing.

Many of the big chains have come a long way, and Pizza Express is certainly amongst them. One of the first to be quoted on the Stock Exchange - in 1993 - Pizza Express is not a franchise operation and retains tight control through its own staff.

Their wine list - though short - contains some surprisingly good offerings, especially their intense Australian Chardonnay, and a big, full-bodied Merlot from Cusumano, Sicilia.

There's a lot more here than meets the eye, although you might be perfectly willing to settle for just that too, because at Café Pasaz in Hull, appearances are not deceptive, they just tell you like it is. The friendly and cheerful staff are always at hand and the décor is contemporary without being cold or clinical. What you don't see right away is the attention to detail in every dish that emerges from the kitchen, although that becomes quite apparent soon enough.

A Thai chicken and coconut soup with noodles becomes a healthy and decently priced snack while classics such as chicken fusili, toad in the hole, paninis, fajitas and sandwiches make excellent and satisfying meals in themselves. There's a tantalising display of cold desserts and cakes to choose from or you could just settle for the hot icky sticky pudding with ice cream. A wonderful selection of wines and beers is available along with Pironi lager on draught.