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It is little communities like this that help you understand why the Romans are said to have been reluctant to proceed much further north, and established their vineyards in the dales of Yorkshire. The Sportsman's is a restaurant with bedrooms. Emphasis is heavily on the local produce, with much of it from the dale itself, as in lamb, pork and beef, with grouse woodcock and pheasant in season. The sea is not that far away and deliveries are made daily from Whitby and the east coast.

Black pudding, haggis and pancetta is a favourite, as is a sturdy but very civilized rib of beef with Yorkshire pudding and onion gravy. Nor is the cellar neglected and some very eclectic selections do justice to old and new traditions. I'm not sure if the Romans knew about the whiskey but their reluctance to go much further north suggests they did not, unless The Sportsman's or its predecessor was as well stocked then as it is now with the amber nectar. A short diversion off the main Dales road will ensure that your faith in detours is fully restored. Oh, yes, and you can fish the River Nidd, following a word with the owners, Ray and Jane Carter.

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