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I must confess that Barrow in Furness is not the sort of place my mind would click to when confronted with the need for a modern and elegant hotel with restaurant to match. This is, of course, pure prejudice, for which I grovel, but it does give me the opportunity to put the matter to rights.

Described as the jewel in the crown of Furness, the claim is a fair one. From the moment you walk in and hear the piano tinkling away in the conservatory bar, you realise that this is no ordinary country house hotel.

A fairly stiff dress code prevails, but somehow it seems to be the least one can do to match the spotless linen, sparkling glassware and generally immaculate surroundings.

Cumbria is awash with wonderful produce from the hills and lakes. Beef reared on the fells have a flavour and firmness of meat all their own, and rack of Cumbrian lamb has to be a gourmet delicacy when dealt with properly in the kitchen - which here, needless to say, it is.

Add Cartmel smoked duck breast and native black bream to the equation and your hand may well be reaching for the phone.

Service is as immaculate as everything else, and an extensive wine cellar works hand in glove with the menu.