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Built solidly, but by no mean ungracefully, to withstand the ravages of northern winter storms, Temple Sowerby House offers a gracious welcome to travellers wishing to stay or those for whom a rather special meal is their main objective.

Head Chef, Ashley Whittaker, offers a monthly changing menu based on the seasons and very much on local produce. Given the quality of the locally sourced materials, some real treats are in store. The flavour of lamb reared on the local fell sides is memorable, pork and beef from specific farms, venison, cheese and, not so far away the seafood from the Solway, all go to reassure, as well as please, the discerning guest.

A typical dinner menu could produce a starter of green tea smoked scallops followed by haunch of venison served with red pepper spatula and a warm redcurrant and port dressing, well rounded off with dark chocolate honeycomb mousse served with lavender ice cream and warm chocolate truffle ravioli. There is an indefinable feel that you are eating in your own, or somebody else's home. The wine list has been compiled specially to be in harmony with the line taken by Ashley's menus.

This is a place to relish and enjoy in temperate mood - no rushing or haste.

This is a first. Until recently the thought of reporting on one of the universally-reviled catering outlets on our motorways would have caused mirthful enquiries after the state of my cranial health amongst my colleagues, and my worthy proprietor might have raised more than an eyebrow.

But, yes, there have been welcome signs of improvement of late, and nowhere has this been more apparent than at Tebay, southern gateway to the Lake District, where a local family diversified from farming big-time when the M6 ploughed through their land. Described by no other than TV chef Clarissa Dickson Wright as the "finest in England, with its wonderful shop full of Cumbrian delights", this refuge from the convenience motoring of a major highway has it all, except a licence, and that's a matter of wise legislation.

Fiercely locally inclined, the staff are nearly all from nearby, the dishes on offer have more than a flavour of the wonderful food in those parts, and the ever expanding deli counter and farm shop has been talked about in the same breath as the food hall at Harrods, which may be further tempting providence given the inclination to resort to law in that area, but let's hope he'd be flattered.

Gourmet eating it is not, quality food provided in pleasant surroundings looking out over a pond and the Cumbrian fells, it most certainly is. Who can ask for more? Even the children and the dog will be happy with ducks to feed and plenty of space for what is diplomatically referred to as 'walkies'. Tebay shines like a beacon of hope for the future of motorway noshing and well deserves the massive support it receives.

Comfortable sofas, bare wooden tables, intimate alcoves and open crackling fire make the George and Dragon an inviting place to unwind while the photographs and paintings bring to mind the neighbouring Lowther Estate's heritage.

Restaurants may be proud of their local sourcing credentials but here it is more than just that; owner Charles Lowther delights in demonstrating his family estate's produce in a monthly changing menu, supplemented by a daily specials board. So there might be a twice baked cheese soufflé; roasted pheasant breast with braised cabbage, fondant potato and cider cream, or organic chicken and chestnut linguini. Finish with a cheeseboard selection accompanied by a glass of d'Arenburg The Vintage Fortified Chiraz from Australia.

The specials menu may feature wild boar carpaccio with pear and truffle oil; mussels in white wine; saddle of lamb with mashed potatoes and glazed carrots, and baked vanilla cheesecake.

In all things in life there are peaks of excellence, which cannot be reasonably challenged. Such is Sharrow Bay, standing on the south shore of Ullswater and looking straight up the middle stretch of that wonderful extent of water to the Helvellyn range and the surrounding Cumbrian Fells.

Sharrow Bay was once likened to an oasis cocooned from the world and all its troubles. Started in 1948 by Brian Sack and Francis Coulson it quickly acquired a reputation for nothing but the best, to the point where nowadays few would quibble with the oft-cited claim that Sharrow Bay has no equal in the world.

This has been very much due to the special skills and intuition that Brian and Francis, now longer with us, were able to bring to almost every aspect of the hotel's affairs. Nor have they been remote and scarcely an evening passed without one or both of them being on hand to welcome and spend time with guests. Of such simple and genuine gestures is success born.

There are no airs and graces at Sharrow Bay; there is just understated comfort, attention to detail, and good taste in abundance. A phalanx of awards, the most recent an RAC Gold Ribbon in 2000, bear testimony to what makes Sharrow Bay one of the Great Experiences. Show me the man who was disappointed by a visit there and I will show you a man who has no further use for life.

Dinner is at eight, not before and certainly not after. The range of breads, which are freely circulated throughout the meal, are imaginative and plentiful. Cooking is traditional English with minimal variations. Desserts are friendly to the palate if not to the waistline and icky sticky toffee sponge generates the sort of memories upon which one dwells when the morale needs a boost. And for those specialists with long memories the Savoury is alive and well at Sharrow Bay. On a slightly different note the breakfasts are legendary.

Sommelier James Payne's wines are diverse, fairly priced and over 20 of them are available by the glass.

One would be forgiven for supposing that such excellence was beyond the means of all but the seriously rich. Rest easy, prices compare favourably with other country house hotels and you really have no excuse for not taking your nearest and dearest there at the earliest opportunity, always provided you can get a booking.

The Yanwath Gate enjoyed an excellent reputation through all the years that Iain and Susan Rhind dispensed good food, notable wines and ample charm, much of which disappeared when they left. Now, however, after a brief interlude, Matt Edwards and Marta Bakinowska have taken over and to say things are looking up would be the understatement of the year. They re-opened on the weekend of the Lowther Driving Trials and , predicatably, were swamped.

After an uncharacteristically dispiriting experience with Lakeland food, earlier in our October weekend, we were lucky to be able to book for dinner. From the moment guests walk through the door they are enfolded by the genuine welcome offered by Matt and his team. Nothing is too much trouble. Everything came to the table as though some choreographer was masterminding the process behind the scenes - perhaps they were? A request to have an item from the by then defunct lunch menu was met with aplomb. It was seafood chowder, a variation on the Scottish cullen skink and it was superb, with mussels in their shells all part of the fun. The mussels also came in their own right with a choice of dressings, and chilli, coconut and lemongrass turned out to be a wise choice. Mussels are a staple item at The Gate, and are served as tapas, a starter or main course.

The marinated and braised shoulder of lamb was cooked to perfection and was accompanied by honeyed parsnip mash, with mint, honey and rosemary jus. Amongst other main courses was a trio of bangers and mash, with venison, pork and orange and peppered beef on a creamy mash with red currant gravy, or red mullet with baby vegetables, buttered noodles, pancetta and tomato pesto. Also popular was the fillet of locally reared beef with roast shallots and red wine gravy. A blackboard of desserts resulted in the bread and butter pudding, combined with white chocolate to make a dreamy, melt-in-the-mouth confection of compulsive appeal.

Service was genuinely friendly and never anything but efficient. A wine list of around 30 bins is equally divided between reds and whites, rarely exceeds £20 and contains some clever choices. Coffee and drinks were served at our request in the bar afterwards where a good mix of locals and guests enjoyed each other's company in thoroughly relaxed surroundings. This is a place which over the years has had a wealth of investment, not just in money but particularly in time, expertise and hard graft. There is no doubt in my mind that the team now in place will see to it that the Gate at Yanwath capitalises on that input, and they go on my "places to watch" list with no hesitation.