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Comfortable sofas, bare wooden tables, intimate alcoves and open crackling fire make the George and Dragon an inviting place to unwind while the photographs and paintings bring to mind the neighbouring Lowther Estate's heritage.

Restaurants may be proud of their local sourcing credentials but here it is more than just that; owner Charles Lowther delights in demonstrating his family estate's produce in a monthly changing menu, supplemented by a daily specials board. So there might be a twice baked cheese soufflé; roasted pheasant breast with braised cabbage, fondant potato and cider cream, or organic chicken and chestnut linguini. Finish with a cheeseboard selection accompanied by a glass of d'Arenburg The Vintage Fortified Chiraz from Australia.

The specials menu may feature wild boar carpaccio with pear and truffle oil; mussels in white wine; saddle of lamb with mashed potatoes and glazed carrots, and baked vanilla cheesecake.

This is a first. Until recently the thought of reporting on one of the universally-reviled catering outlets on our motorways would have caused mirthful enquiries after the state of my cranial health amongst my colleagues, and my worthy proprietor might have raised more than an eyebrow.

But, yes, there have been welcome signs of improvement of late, and nowhere has this been more apparent than at Tebay, southern gateway to the Lake District, where a local family diversified from farming big-time when the M6 ploughed through their land. Described by no other than TV chef Clarissa Dickson Wright as the "finest in England, with its wonderful shop full of Cumbrian delights", this refuge from the convenience motoring of a major highway has it all, except a licence, and that's a matter of wise legislation.

Fiercely locally inclined, the staff are nearly all from nearby, the dishes on offer have more than a flavour of the wonderful food in those parts, and the ever expanding deli counter and farm shop has been talked about in the same breath as the food hall at Harrods, which may be further tempting providence given the inclination to resort to law in that area, but let's hope he'd be flattered.

Gourmet eating it is not, quality food provided in pleasant surroundings looking out over a pond and the Cumbrian fells, it most certainly is. Who can ask for more? Even the children and the dog will be happy with ducks to feed and plenty of space for what is diplomatically referred to as 'walkies'. Tebay shines like a beacon of hope for the future of motorway noshing and well deserves the massive support it receives.

Built solidly, but by no mean ungracefully, to withstand the ravages of northern winter storms, Temple Sowerby House offers a gracious welcome to travellers wishing to stay or those for whom a rather special meal is their main objective.

Head Chef, Ashley Whittaker, offers a monthly changing menu based on the seasons and very much on local produce. Given the quality of the locally sourced materials, some real treats are in store. The flavour of lamb reared on the local fell sides is memorable, pork and beef from specific farms, venison, cheese and, not so far away the seafood from the Solway, all go to reassure, as well as please, the discerning guest.

A typical dinner menu could produce a starter of green tea smoked scallops followed by haunch of venison served with red pepper spatula and a warm redcurrant and port dressing, well rounded off with dark chocolate honeycomb mousse served with lavender ice cream and warm chocolate truffle ravioli. There is an indefinable feel that you are eating in your own, or somebody else's home. The wine list has been compiled specially to be in harmony with the line taken by Ashley's menus.

This is a place to relish and enjoy in temperate mood - no rushing or haste.

Bella Italia is a restaurant that pulsates with Italian style and fashion, where the day starts with breakfast, not least the Inglese, the familiar bacon, sausage, mushroom, tomato and fried or scrambled eggs and sauté potatoes with ciabatta toast so beloved of hearty eaters seeking a good start to the day, particularly when they don't have to prepare it. A vegetarian option is available, along with the bambini of sausages, tomato and scrambled egg, or a strapazzata, scrambled eggs on ciabatta toast. Natural yoghurt with granola cereal or apple and blueberry compote offers a more gentle awakening and croissant or pastries are welcome at almost any time.

It is always worth remembering that eating Italian is a great opportunity to work away through something rather more liberating than the conventional 3 course English meal. Little and often seems to be the motto but move on to the antipasti and it's immediately obvious this is no easy task, confronted with well over a dozen dishes, not one of which you really have the heart to turn down. The selezione classica assembles a few of the favourite starters; bruschetta and formaggio fritto with funghi arrosto, calamari and king prawn skewers.

A speck e rucola pizza, added to a traditional margherita brings together two traditions with northern Italian mountain smoked ham providing the second, but it is within the pasta and risotto dishes that you can adapt almost any main ingredient, as well enjoy some of Italy's most traditional treats. Who can deny a well formed spaghetti Bolognese or penne Marco Polo? And not for nothing is a nicely prepared spaghetti carbonara the preferred dish of many.

From a selection of five choices amongst the secondi many will head unerringly for controfiletto ai ferri, a 7oz sirloin steak char-grilled to preference and served with garlic butter, garlic mushrooms, fries and rocket, or the fritto misto, tempura battered prawns, golden cod pieces and calamari with fries and a side salad.

Could anything be more appropriate than The Godfather, for 1 or 2 naturally, with nutty chocolate fudge brownies, vanilla and toffee ice cream with chocolate crunch, chocolate sauce, fresh cream and wafer curls, and rest assured the coffee will do justice to the meal.

With a wine list that makes few concessions to other countries - and why should it - good Italian food can receive an equally national baptism by wine.