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In slightly less than three years The Masonic Arms has gained the right to lay claim to the title of "South West Scotland's premier destination for good food and real ale". There are now three distinct eating areas, a cosy old world beamed bar, a contemporary restaurant and the Mediterranean Conservatory. The accolades have followed quickly - "Scotland's best loved pub" said the Daily Telegraph, Scottish Gastro Pub 2006 award from the Scottish Chefs' Association, and the only gastropub in Dumfries and Galloway to feature in Egon Ronay's 2006 Guide.

The everyday menu is available daily from 12 noon to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm. Starters or snacks are available from a selection that includes haggis and tattie scone tower with Drambuie sauce; roasted pork spare ribs with barbecue sauce; crab, prawn and crayfish tail salad in a filo case with avocado salsa; Galloway smoked salmon from Allan Watson's famous smoke house at nearby Carsluith, with all the trimmings, and a basket of fresh breads with aioli and olive oil.

Pub grub lists beef char sui, tender fillet of beef wok fried with a julienne of vegetables in traditional char sui, served on a timbale of fried rice, or bangers and mash, Lincolnshire sausages with caramelised red onions and port, served on creamed potatoes and a light red wine jus. Posh Nosh offers whole grilled local fresh lobster, thermidor or with garlic butter, and filo parcel of lamb with Galloway mustard seed and rosemary.

Steaks at The Masonic are serious business, and as to be expected the meat is local Galloway, grass-fed beef. Sauces range from Bonnie Prince Charlie to béarnaise, including a new one for me - Merrick, a blend of haggis and drambuie cream. The salads are superb - Kirkudbright crab or honeyroast Ayrshire gammon appeal?

Puds are many and varied but sticky toffee banana pudding or raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake catch the eye, as does the Masonic adaptation of a classic summer pudding.

Whilst real ales such as Timothy Taylor Landlord and Adnams Broadside feature large, there is also a competent wine list, and the gantry does well for the Highland malts, though sadly does not include the locally made Bladnoch. This is a place well worth making a detour if you are heading up for the west side of Scotland.

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