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It's a longish way from the London Ritz to Dornoch but that's the journey Michael and Kerensa Carr travelled in 1995 to set up their restaurant with rooms, now a well-respected and much sought-after haven for those who know and appreciate their food and wine. Their comfortable and welcoming Victorian home is open seven days a week if you wish to stay (but check in advance in winter) and for dinner every night except Sundays and Mondays. Booking in advance is essential.

There is a weekly changing menu with three choices per course selected from a range of elegant and good value dishes such as Maryland-style crab cake with salsa verde, loin of venison with brandied cherries, walnuts and thyme, followed by layered mango and coconut mousse with lime syrup. Their impressive list of suppliers includes J M Munro, the renowned Dingwall butchers, deli-foods from Vin Sullivan in Abergavenny, and Munro Fruit Merchants in Tain.

Wine is taken seriously - and often - and there are currently about 70 on their list. No one supplier is used exclusively, but it is encouraging to see household names on the list including the Corney and Berrow/Whighams of Ayr duo amongst them.