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Inverness, taken from the Scots Gaelic meaning 'mouth of the river Ness' owes its origin to a settlement established in the 6th century, with the first royal charter being granted by King David I in the 12th century. Situated in the heart of the historic city is this stylish restaurant, Indian Ocean, offering traditional food from the sub-continent in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

The extensive menu offers something that aims to please every guest and even the most discerning palates. Start with spicy mushroom and potato served with fried Indian bread, or boneless pieces of chicken/lamb marinated in exotic spices and then cooked in a traditional tandoori oven, along with lentil soup. The braised golden brown lamb in sliced onion, ginger and ground garam masala, prepared in a medium thick sauce, or king prawn shashlik are but two of the oriental delights that await you There is a variety of Indian breads to help you along this gastronomic journey.

This dignified and welcoming restaurant overlooking the River Ness offers well-prepared and locally sourced food in a wide variety of dishes which all follow much the same pattern of traditional with modern. No better start than six fresh oysters from the Kyle of Tongue served with an elaborate dressing which wonderfully enhances the oysters. Main courses draw fully on local flesh and fowl, with duck, geese, venison and Aberdeen Angus beef to the fore. The décor too is traditional but awfu' good on a blustery, cold night. Classic colours are deployed and, as ever, never fail. A set price dinner is £29.95 and the wine list stands up to close scrutiny.

Culloden is a handsome, typical Scots country house which has the dubious distinction of having been Bonnie Prince Charlie's quarters at the time of the Battle of Culloden. It was to this house that many of the wounded Jacobites were brought after the conflict only to fall victims to "Butcher" Cumberland, who carried out his orders with awful precision. Nowadays a happier atmosphere prevails and those who prize a taste of the better things in life beat a path to the door of this peaceful house. Scottish dishes are in great evidence and many of the ingredients have known no other environment than the surrounding lochs, hills and sea.

A meal might start with tartar of sea trout and smoked salmon with marinated cucumber, lemon and pepper oil. A timbale of haggis, neeps and tatties takes a nod to more Lowland tendencies, though in truth the Highlands have been happy to adopt them. Medallions of beef fillet coated with a creamed grain mustard sauce topped with whole shallots, chestnuts and bacon lardoons arrive with a wonderful selection of vegetables which you know instinctively are fresh. If you have never tasted Atholl brose, now's the time, a wonderful blend of honey, cream and whisky, with a coating of toasted caramel to provide a very Scottish finale to the meal.

Pizza Express remains a hugely popular bedrock of casual eating. Its popularity is testimony to the fact that across the country, they have restaurants where you will always be guaranteed a good nosh, with children's tastes being well catered for.

Pizza Express has gone even more Roman, and following the success of that particular example of listening to their public have introduced Romana pizzas, including the scorching Etna and the hearty Siciliana.

These pizzas are now thinner, bigger and crispier, and if that sounds like a marketing line, it is. However, unlike many such lines, this one is true, and their quality is always consistent, though cleverly they have still managed to retain a homemade feel to their pizzas.

As an alternative to pizza, try their pollo pesto - cavatappi pasta with torn chicken breast, mushrooms, red onions and mozzarella in a creamy gruyere, parmesan and pesto sauce and finished with grana padano - or the niçoise salad with mixed leaves, yellowfin tuna, free range egg, green beans, potatoes and tomatoes with olives, anchovies, capers and house dressing.

Many of the big chains have come a long way, and Pizza Express is certainly amongst them. One of the first to be quoted on the Stock Exchange - in 1993 - Pizza Express is not a franchise operation and retains tight control through its own staff.

Their wine list - though short - contains some surprisingly good offerings, especially their intense Australian Chardonnay, and a big, full-bodied Merlot from Cusumano, Sicilia.

Some day somebody with time on their hands will work out the ratio of outstanding restaurants per head of the population in any particular place. For instance, even with Shaun Hill's departure, Ludlow must be a strong candidate for best town in this respect. I would hazard a guess that Scotland must also be pretty well up the national scale, a surmise that is certainly assisted by Abstract, formerly La Riviera, the dining part of the Glenmoriston Hotel, in Inverness.

Invaded recently by the TV cameras with Gordon Ramsay in close pursuit, a remarkably clean bill of health was delivered by the maestro. Now, with a new name, Abstract is delivering the goods in no uncertain fashion. The size of the menu has been greatly reduced, a tasting menu has been added, but only at The Chef's table and for a very limited number of people. For the great majority starters could include an assiette of Loch Dewart salmon prepared in three ways tataki, smoked and croquette, or foie gras ravioli with spring vegetables, grilled pancetta and fresh herbs.

Main courses embrace Fillet of Black Isle beef, a gratin of large macaroni, roasted tomatoes and oregano jus, or roasted North Sea turbot with pork ravioli, broad beans and new season mousseron. Chef Loic Lefebvre, who with a distinguished career in culinary France clearly has his eye set on adding to his collection of Michelin Stars, seems to be an exponent of the slow cooking art, and a close encounter with his slowly baked wild sea bass will leave you in no doubt as to his ability.

For sheer artistic manipulation of the tastebuds try the citrus fruit rosace Amaretto cream, lemon and thyme sorbet. When you are recommended to order the dessert of your choice well in advance you know there's a treat in store.

The wine list is by no means to be taken lightly, service is well-groomed and precise and the location, looking out over the River Ness is agreeable.

The Auld Alliance is alive and well if Chez Christophe is anything to go by, offering a union of French cuisine with the best of Scottish produce. It is tiny, out of all comparison with the clout it packs, just sixteen covers, but this only serves to enhance the illusion that you are dining in somebody's home. A handsome town house built in the local stone, the restaurant looks the part before you even enter. The menu is changed twice-yearly.

After a pre-starter comes a choice of five starters with perhaps panfried Stornoway black pudding and duck confit, topped with caramelised apples, on a puff pastry pillow, dressed with a lemon oil vinaigrette. It is refreshing to see black pudding taking its place as what it has always been, a nutritious delicacy. Soup takes on a new dimension with cream of fresh petit pois and layers of asparagus tips, with poached mozzarella and spinach ravioli.

A fish course follows and Christophe Magie loses no opportunity to exploit the wonderful seafood for which Scotland is rightly celebrated. Look for the roasted fillet of John Dory and chorizo on a bed of buttered leeks dressed with its own shallot and balsamic vinegar jus. The renowned beef of Scotland comes in the form of extra mature Aberdeen Angus topped with confites shallots and supported by a traditional gratin Dauphinois.

After a pre-dessert sweetener the list of puddings is headed in the French style with a selection of French cheeses that will rock the connoisseur before proceeding to, say, a warm dark chocolate coulant gateaux served with a vanilla and mascarpone ice cream.

Service is, as you would rightly expect, impeccable, once again a combination of Scots natural charm and training with French culinary expertise. The wine list is proudly and exclusively French and invites attention from the most demanding enthusiasts of wine.

I trust the inhabitants of Scotland and its visitors realise just how very fortunate they are.

Think of everything you know about hotels and then forget it all instantly because Rocpool Reserve Hotel chooses to redefine your previous experiences. This exclusive getaway in the centre of the city is all about elegance and glow, thereby lending an invitation to come and indulge.

The restaurant is smartly furnished in a clean, bright style with large windows. The kitchen, under the tutelage of Chef Davey Aspin with considerable culinary experience in Michelin starred establishments, is in the quest to innovate. So a chicken boudin with cep puree, wild mushroom tortellino and Périgord truffle; shellfish bisque of Loch Linnhe prawns and scallop mousse, and veal cheek with braised snails, bone marrow and celeriac should come as no surprise.

If you thought innovation ends here, think again because there is rhubarb crumble soufflé with sorbet and white chocolate and cardamom parfait with marshmallows and griottine cherries for dessert.