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Causing quite a stir in the culinary doocots of Scotland is The Whitehouse, one of whose more endearing features is that it's twenty miles down a single-track road on the Morvern peninsula, not one of the more overcrowded areas of Argyll. Far from this being seen as an obstacle, bookings from zealous gourmets are pouring in and so are the accolades, in the form of a Michelin Guide listing. The Whitehouse opens from April to New Year's Day and is already so popular that two sittings every evening are de rigeur.

Nor is this surprising. The secret lies in the fact that local ingredients and produce are widely used, as much for convenience as any other reason. Such dishes as the fabulous gravadlax chive cream and sorrel make regular appearances, as do Sound of Mull scallops and nutmeg butter. Should you be looking for some hearty main courses try the Ulva sirloin, celeriac puree and Savoy cabbage, or Loch Aline langoustines with aioli and bitter leaves.

There is a good wine list, and service has all the natural charm of genuine people relatively untouched by the larger, and ruder, world.