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Whilst it may not be every day that most people find themselves in Kirkwall, there are enough who do for the reputation of this waterfront hotel to travel well beyond the Orkney Islands. Not only is the hotel itself comfortable and well located, the restaurant is a prime example of Scottish cuisine at its best.

Not unnaturally the menu focuses on seafood, but the local beef, cheese and lamb do not go unnoticed. When did you last give thought to beef on a haggis-topped barley bannock, Orkney clapshot (tatties and neeps, for those of you who thought Burns had the prerogative on such matters), or scallops St Ola, a delightful dish made with some of the local renowned ale and cream? Your fancy may be tickled by Orkney beef carpaccio, served with homemade onion marmalade, but even if it is not be sure to make space for their famed Trumland tart. Made from the local Grimbister cheese and bitter chocolate it makes me wonder if one of Heston Blumenthal's protégés has strayed up north.

I am not saying we do not respect our butchers further south, but in Scotland there has always been a specially close relationship between the butcher (or Flesher as he used to be called) and the local community. The result was - and still is, despite supermarkets - meat about which one was able to feel quite personal, so things like black pudding, haggis and other often offal-based delights feature strongly still on a truly Scottish menu.

Another traditional consolation for which we have to thank the Scots, is whisky. For true connoisseurs, be aware that Highland Park has been made since 1798 on the rising ground behind Kirkwall. It is available, along with other delights from the competition, in abundance, and is rumoured to work wonders for the digestion, especially after a substantial meal.

Empire Chinese Restaurant is located in Kirkwall, one of the most attractive and well-preserved small towns in Scotland. The restaurant gets its name from Norse 'Kirkjuvagr', or 'Church Bay' and comes from the foundation of a church dedicated to St. Olaf.

Kirkwall has largely been influenced by the development of its harbour, a meeting point for traders all over the world to bring in their culture and custom for symbiotic exchange. While culture and customs take time to be imbibed, food breaks the barrier quickly and the results are enjoyed by people thousands of miles away.

To the Chinese, food is life but it is also health and a symbol of luck and prosperity. A Chinese proverb says, 'heaven loves the man who eats well' so this savoury and complex cuisine is full of exquisite flavours with fiery and subtle seasonings that have been perfected over thousands of years.

And at Empire Chinese Restaurant, the chef strongly feels that a well prepared Chinese dish appeals to more senses than just taste. Its colours are pleasing to the eye, the ingredients are of uniform size and the food has tantalising fragrance. If one dish is crisp, it is offset by another that is smooth, and a bland dish is paired with one that is spicy, thereby always trying to create a balance of yin and yang.

Just as tomatoes and oregano are typical of Italian cuisine and wine and tarragon of French cooking, a Chinese meal is incomplete without soy sauce and rice or noodles. Chicken is a popular ingredient and while it is cut, every single piece is used, though we won't go into the gory details. The emphasis in Chinese culture on wholeness is reflected with everything having a beginning and an end.

Whilst here, try the butterfly king prawns, chicken in orange sauce or the special chop suey. Pork lovers can relish the roast pork with mushrooms, while those fond of duck can enjoy curried or roast duck.

For a better understanding of Chinese cuisine and a treat to your sense of smell, touch and taste, do enjoy a balanced meal at the Empire Chinese Restaurant.