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No money has been spent on unnecessary fripperies at The Creel. Arguably none is needed for look out of the windows and see some of the best scenery in Scotland that somehow sits comfortably with the pine furniture and minimalist décor.

It's the food that counts. Naturally the produce of the sea features widely and with the decline of many better-known types of fish Chef Craigie has no hesitation in introducing some relative newcomers to the table, of which wolf-fish, torsk and megrim are but three. Organic salmon, seaweed fed lamb, Orkney new potatoes and the best Orkney beef are there to captivate your palate.

A three-course dinner, the memory of which is calculated to linger fondly with you for quite a while will cost £30 and is worth every penny. Orkney is home to Highland Park, the famed single malt; Orkney ales too are in a class of their own. A shrewd selection of wines ensures that glass meets plate, with house wine from £13.

The Creel is the haunt of gourmets from all over the world, demonstrating once again that reliable ingredients, fresh produce and a deft hand are the essential constituents of a successful restaurant.