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One of the more refreshing aspects of travelling in Scotland is that burst of optimism that overtakes the motorist as, after miles of conifers and vast expanses of water there suddenly appears what is clearly a hostelry of place and substance offering a promise of refreshment and relaxation, which after all are probably two of the reasons for being there anyway.

Of such is The Creggans, a well-loved inn on the road from Glasgow to Inverary, at Strachur, overlooking Loch Fyne, and it came as welcome relief indeed. Had we arrived by boat we could have used one of the hotel moorings in the Loch. As it was the Focus fitted well into an otherwise largely empty car park at lunchtime.

Alongside Loch Fyne it would have been churlish not to sample the local oysters, fresh as the day, though the filo horn of hand-dived scallops with mussel and saffron cream sauce came a very close second. The fillet of Aberdeenshire beef was quite one of the best ever, served with mash infused with oxtail and morel mushroom jus. Much as I like rack of lamb I tend to leave the basic product to the Welsh or the Cumbrians, and a good second choice would have been the breast of Bressingham duck with olive mash and a Madeira jus.

The warm prune and Armagnac tart, a melt in the mouth confection served with home made cinnamon ice-cream was an immediate choice of dessert. One alternative could have been the dark chocolate marquise with rhubarb and honey ice cream, but a long love affair with Scottish cheeses resulted in a renewal of faith as an extra course. There is little doubt that Lanark Blue can compete on almost any terms with our English blues.

A well constructed wine list yielded a bottle of Chateau Musar '97, a real joy to find amongst Scotland's lochs and mountains. The half bottle of Montbazillac complimented equally both dessert and cheese.

Fernpoint in Inveraray was the first house to be built there, more than two centuries ago, and looks out over stunning vistas of the Loch Fyne. There is much activity here, for the adventurous such as riding, boating and fishing, while those who prefer gentler pursuits will not be disappointed either, considering the numerous sightseeing opportunities it offers. Bedrooms at the recently refurbished Fernpoint have all requisite comforts, and the food there, a delightful selection of fresh seafood or prime Scotch beef, never fails to please.

The pan fried chilli prawns with a crisp salad makes an excellent starter, paving the way for a main course such as monkfish medallions with mussels, flamed in a Pernod and cream sauce with champ mash. Other mains include a hearty sirloin steak served with rustic potato chips and a choice of pepper, garlic or Stilton sauce. The concise wine list features choices from across the world, complementing the dishes with élan.

Whilst the 42 Loch Fyne restaurants have a shared background there is a welcome degree of individuality encouraged throughout the group, which makes for customer interest. If you like wholesome, fresh and reliable seafood caught and reared under carefully controlled conditions, well presented in unfussy surroundings, and you enjoy being well looked after by pleasant staff, Loch Fyne is for you.

There is an increasing awareness of other food staples with an extended choice of meat dishes, but it is the original fare upon which their success was created that prevails. Loch Fyne kippers, a fine bouillabaisse, braden rost, kiln-roasted salmon fillet, and the toothsome oysters on ice, with a selection of accompaniments, all are to be found throughout the various restaurants, as well as Glen Fyne 21 day aged rib-eye steak and Scottish smoked venison. There is invariably a well-travelled wine list available which is sensible, both in content and prices.

Loch Fyne's greatest achievement has been to prove to a sceptical populace that chains or conglomerates can be made to work in the eating-out public's best interests.