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One of my more sombre sailing experiences was spending an evening within the shadow of the Crinan Hotel, wrestling with a recalcitrant propeller on the yacht, whilst colleagues dined the night away above me. Trouble was I knew I was missing one of the most attractive dining experiences on the west coast of Scotland.

Of the two restaurants within the hotel Lock 16, on the top floor, has the edge which means that its food at least has overflowed into the Westward on the ground floor. Quite apart from the view, which from Lock 16 in particular is unbelievably beautiful, the whole experience is wickedly good.

A four course dinner costs £40, one of which is a sort of fishy passing moment at the second course. Local produce features largely, with such delights as prawns from the Corryvrecken and mussels from Loch Craignish. Seafood is landed a mere 50 yards from the kitchen door. Roast garlic, poached fennel and salsify are only a few of the special flavours invoked and used with a light and perfectly timed hand.

A workmanlike wine list gives ample choices without confusion, starting at £16 for what is effectively a very good house red.