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Every so often one comes across a trace of paradise and But 'n' Ben is a wonderful example. Not far out of Arbroath in two gently refashioned cottages you can enjoy the traditional Smokies in various mouth-watering manifestations. It must almost go without saying that ingredients are known almost to which part of the ocean they emanated from, everything is wonderfully fresh, and one can eat with confidence and enjoyment. Nor are the carnivores neglected and the local abattoir (yes, there are a few surviving) facilitates quality beef. Homemade jams, chutneys and Scots baking further enhance the essential homeliness of this delightful place. Thirty-strong wine list with house wine at £9.50.