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A long way from No 1 Devonshire Gardens, but the air is much better, even if your new premises are tucked away in the windowless room of a great hotel. It does seem slightly sad that this has to be so with such wonderful views around but once you adjust to the idea of an excursion into a time capsule loaded with smart service, notable wines and the sort of well drilled food that made Andrew Fairlie so respected in Glasgow, all is well.

Access to the delights of Perthshire produce on the doorstep has only tended to increase the quality of his dishes and combined with previous urban experience results are impressive. Small surprise that the title of Restaurant of the Year, awarded by the AA Restaurant Guide 2003, had come their way so early after opening.

The concept of a marriage of outstanding chefs with sonorous premises is a relatively happy one, especially as here where the great man is almost invariably to be seen at the stoves, not merely lending his name to the operation. House wine at £25, with set price dinner at £65 per head.

Should you be so unfortunate as to be unable to book in to Andrew Fairlies at The Gleneagles, there is a very creditable alternative in the form of The Strathearn Restaurant. Indeed you may well wish to dine there anyway since it is open for breakfast, dinner and Sunday lunch. The room is constructed on heroic lines, Edwardian in scale, but never ponderous. Dress code is flexible.

The menus pay ample service to the excellence of Scottish ingredients and style and an aura of tartan well-being surrounds the culinary disciplines. So it comes as no surprise to find eleven starters, of which no less than five are of the country. Arbroath smokie brandade with a poached duck egg and a sauce mousseline leads the charge for the starters, closely followed by pan seared Crinan scallops with Clonakilty white pudding and apple, or a classic Caesar salad of great integrity.

Main courses of baked Stonehaven halibut with Jerusalem artichoke barigoule, grilled rib-eye of veal, and that King of dishes, roast Highland venison with sauce grand veneur serve to confirm the style.

Desserts raise the flag for the now-rare savoury in the form of devils on horseback or a croque monsieur, as well rhubarb tipsy laird, or a warm cloutie dumpling with cranachan ice cream.

A pleasant little afterthought is the six malt whisky truffles served with the coffee or tea, the latter being very much a Scots inclination. There are no less than seven sommeliers, with a wine cellar and list to match, and service is professional.