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The French Horn continues to get rave reviews due, as ever, in part to the riverside setting, the quality of the food but perhaps more than anything the fact that you can go there and know with perfect confidence that everything will be right.

If there are ego trips at work here they are well concealed, but in the main one has the impression of a group who have taken pains to gather together the various facets of what a well-defined strata of people want when they dine out, and do it.

The results are there for all to see and The French Horn should be an obligatory point of reference for all who review and enjoy good food and wine. The experience does not come cheap, but perfection seldom does and when you have created it you are entitled to reap the rewards.