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In the great pub evolution there have, as always, been winners and losers. The weak have gone to the wall, the strong have survived, and the newcomers have led the renaissance. The emergence of modest groupings of revitalised pubs has brought some real stars, of which The Royal Oak is undoubtedly one, a verdict supported by the award of Dining Pub of the Year in the Good Pub Guide for 2011.

The advantages of an historic building have been skilfully combined with new ideas, modern management with heart, and an adherence to being British that borders on patriotism. Character and atmosphere is there in abundance, and you will dine in a rosy red room with glowing dark floorboards.
 
Only 15 minutes from the M4 and the M40, and 3 from the centre of Marlow (great shopping for the m'sahib) The Royal Oak is rural enough to have the red kites, reintroduced to the Chilterns in 1989, doing an aerial display over the pub. Once inside, the warmth of an egalitarian clientele, and friendly staff can lead to a steady and insidious relaxation.

Head Chef Ed Frost presides over a talented team which monitors on what they call a 'British Colonial' style. This involves emphasis on the products of the local fields and hedgerows, an art that over the years we have mislaid, to our own disadvantage. Starters of small plates look to seared Scottish salmon and horseradish blinis with rocket and beetroot salad cream; bubble and squeak with oak smoked bacon, free range poached egg and Hollandaise sauce, or Dorset brown crab mayonnaise on toasted ciabatta.

Many dishes are subject to season and in summer look out for grilled Cornish mackerel fillets with warm marinated feta, broad bean and new potato salad and harissa yoghurt. At any time that grand dish, the char-grilled aged English steak should not be ignored, served here with blue cheese Caesar butter and skinny chips. The eponymous pan-roast Barbary duck breast with confit potato, caramelised red onion tarte tatin and broccoli purée combines flavours that were surely grown or bred in some celestial place, though for those who like their pleasures at the table simple there is whole Cornish sole with buttered marsh samphire, sautéed new potatoes and sauce vierge.

Amongst an inspired presentation of vegetables look for open field mushroom and spinach lasagne with garden herb sabayon, pickled walnuts and truffle oil, to name but a few. Puddings present a star-studded raft of choices, starting with the baked dark chocolate soup with chocolate crackles and tiramisu ice cream, some stunning home made sorbets (mango, elderflower and strawberry for instance), or passion fruit delice with caramelised pineapple and coconut candy. I won't go on about the British cheese plate, but do leave some space . . . . . .

But I will go on about the fairly short but quite outstanding wine list which does the business in that direction with consummate skill. There is a good by-the-glass selection and addicts of pudding wine will find themselves in some sort of plummy heaven. Prices are a gift from the gods too.

Their excellent and friendly Website will introduce to further points of virtue about The Royal Oak, together with more information on such matters as changing menus.

The Woolpack country pub and eating-house has an open plan and stylish interiors. Like many other gastropubs that have sprung up in various locations over the past decade, this Risborough Road outlet's menu is a splendid excuse to stop by for lunch or unwind after work. Its well-lit, spacious and comfortable ambience draws both locals and visitors.

Contemporary inns such as these usually share a number of characteristics. An important feature is space, preferably a restaurant where you are comfortable, not over-awed, and not sharing elbow space with the next table, however sociable they may be. Good, too, to have an optional al fresco eating out space, in this case on a patio at the front, and last, but by no means least, a roomy and well stocked bar where you can actually get served without undue delay. After all, drinking should be taken seriously.

If a pub offers all of these, and is in a good location, there is little reason in today's economic climate why it should not flourish. The Woolpack provides ample evidence that this is true. But of course there are other factors. The term gastropub covers a multitude of blessings, and it is possible to see influences of brasserie, bistro, restaurant and even café at work within the great gastro umbrella. So expect to find no one single cuisine, but a blend designed to provide something for everybody, no matter what their treat may be.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, box baked Camembert with red onion jam and rustic bread and Greek mezze of taramasalata with red pepper hummus, tzatziki, feta and flatbreads.

Amongst the starters, there is freshly made soup, smoked mackerel pâté, seared pigeon breast, or a red onion tart. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer Persian chicken kebabs, fattoush salad, yoghurt and mint dressing, and for the seafood fiends some smoked trout, prawn, pancetta, horseradish dressing, watercress, spinach and baby potatoes.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic Margherita of tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil, another with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños. Pastas include rigatoni, pork, veal and oregano meatballs with arrabiata sauce, and smoked haddock risotto.

For the big event, there is always a fish of the day on request. The spit chicken with roast garlic, lemon, thyme, aioli and frites is worth trying too. The classic burger, which has risen from the confines of fast food chains, carves a niche for itself on the menu and comes with onion, gherkin, mustard mayo, cheese and bacon. For hearty eaters there is a five spice duck confit, or lamb rack with a spiced dukkah crust.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes Belgian frites and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. Desserts are some of the best you'll encounter with apple and frangipane gallette and Cognac ice cream, and there is also a selection of local cheeses to set the buffs alight.

The Woolpack stocks a wide range of beers, both well-loved draught ales and bottled from further afield. The wine list covers plenty of territory from traditional clarets to Pinot Grigio, and champagne by the glass or bottle is always available. Service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub.

You can check that out and much more on their Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.

The first Browns opened at Brighton in 1973 with one simple guiding belief, that classic food, well delivered in a stylish environment would be a recipe for success. The only thing that has changed since then is the number of Browns, now running at fourteen, of which six are in London, all prospering with the same theme.

The main menu, available throughout the day, starts with appetisers, designed for sharing, with antipasti of Italian meat, vegetarian or seafood. Try the flatbreads with a range of interesting toppings.

In amongst the thirteen starters expect to come across smoked duck, crisp noodle and cashew nut salad with red peppers, tumeric cauliflower, spring onions and a sherry vinaigrette. The fish and salad choices include fish and chips tempura battered cod with minted mushy peas and tartar sauce and pan-fried butterflied tiger prawns tossed with linguine in a tomato, coriander and chorizo sauce.

The same theme of comfortable food, well-cooked and presented, continues throughout the mains course with roast chicken breast in sour dough bread with baby spinach, tomato and mayonnaise, served with seasoned chips, and steak frites 6oz prime sirloin, served with a lemon, parsley and peppercorn butter.

The wine list is masterful and not over long, sometimes a great relief to those who find it tiresome to navigate their way through even an interesting list such as this. Many bottles are available by the glass and each group of wines is helpfully classified under headings such as white, red and rose with a reserve selection, house recommendations, New and Old World under them.

Browns at Milton Keynes are well able to deal with groups, and have special menus to look after their particular interests. Click on their excellent Website for further details and menu changes.

The Royal Saracens Head, an eighteenth century free house, is situated in the attractive town of Beaconsfield and offers its customers a comfortable experience combined with warm hospitality. The original site is believed to have been a tavern as far back as the 12th century and was reputed to be a regular haunt of Richard I. The results of refurbishment are clearly visible in its trendy ambience - stripped wooden artefacts, large mirrors and stylish lighting.

The menu is simple but up-to-the-minute with lots of comfort appeal and offers homely dishes like pizza, steaks and pasta as well as ones with more contemporary, global touches, all delivered by friendly and cheerful staff. Their wine list contains well known favourites alongside more unusual numbers from around the world.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, garlic pizzette, caramelised onion and rocket, a box baked camembert with stiratta romagna and home made tomato jam.

Amongst the starters, there is freshly made soup, sardines on bruschetta with red onion, plum tomato and gremolata or water melon with prosciutto ham and feta with chilli ice cream. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer crispy duck with mouli, hoisin, carrots, spring onions and plum sauce, for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecan, mango, watercress, bacon with orange and pomegranate vinaigrette.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil, piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños or the rustica of roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats' cheese, cherry tomatoes and rocket.

Pastas include linguini with tiger prawns, crab, chorizo, chilli, tomato and white wine, or strozzapreti of fresh tomato, goats' cheese, spinach, pine nuts and raisins. For the big event there is always Indian spiced salmon fillet with wilted spinach and sweet potato with aubergine and mango chutney.

The roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta, button onions and baby potatoes is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. There is a lovely spit chicken with lemon, garlic, thyme and frites, as well as calves liver, tray baked potatoes, red onion and bacon with sage panagrattato.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes green salad, Belgian frites and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. For desserts choose between Eton mess or apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard. There is also a selection of cheeses to set the buffs alight.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.

The Wavendon Arms, a country pub nestling on the edge of Wavendon dates back to 1851 when it was the centre of village life for a thriving community and surrounded by lush farmland. Formerly known as The Leathern Bottle, the pub was once the home of a friendly society called 'The Oddfellows' and their coat of arms still serves as the pub's sign.
 
Attention to detail and quality of service ensures your whole dining experience will be one to remember. Tremendous thought and effort has gone into restoring the pub to its former glory, with stone fired ovens, log burning hearths, deep leather seating and spacious teak furniture. In summer, the large garden provides a good setting to enjoy the balmy evenings. Their wine list contains well-known favourites to suit different tastes.

The choices are simple but up-to-the-minute, with lots of comfort appeal, with homely things like pizza, steaks and pasta as well as contemporary, global touches to keep things lively; all delivered by friendly and cheerful staff.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, garlic pizzette, caramelised onion and rocket, a box baked camembert with stiratta romagna and home made tomato jam or Mediterranean mezze of hummus, roasted vegetables, fregola, tzatziki, feta, spinach and ricotta pâté with warm flatbreads.

Amongst the starters, there is freshly made soup, sardines on bruschetta with red onion, plum tomato and gremolata or water melon with prosciutto ham, feta and chilli ice cream. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer crispy duck with mouli, hoisin, carrots, spring onions and plum sauce, for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecan, mango, watercress, bacon with orange and pomegranate vinaigrette.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil, or piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños. Pastas include linguini with tiger prawns, crab, chorizo, chilli, tomato and white wine, or tagliatelle with slow cooked Bolognaise and parmesan.
 
For the big event, there is Indian spiced salmon fillet with wilted spinach and sweet potato with aubergine and mango chutney. The freshly battered haddock with frites, tartare sauce, minted mushy peas and chips is worth trying too. The roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta, button onions and baby potatoes is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. For hearty eaters there is a good rib-eye steak with smoked paprika and tomato butter, watercress and frites.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes Belgian frites and mayo, green salad and, cabbage, leeks and peas. For desserts choose between Eton mess or apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard. There is also a selection of cheeses to set the buffs alight.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.

In the great pub evolution there have, as always, been winners and losers. The weak have gone to the wall, the strong have survived, and the newcomers have led the renaissance. The emergence of modest groupings of revitalised pubs has brought some real stars, of which The Old Queen's Head is undoubtedly one, a verdict supported by the award of 'Les Routiers' Pub of the Year 2008.

The advantages of an historic building have been skilfully combined with new ideas, modern management with heart, and an adherence to being British that borders on patriotism. Character and atmosphere is there in abundance, and you will dine in a room that was once a rustic barn, built in 1666 when London was being refashioned by the Great Fire.

The surroundings differ little from the pub. Whether you wish to cultivate an appetite, or walk off an excellent meal, nearby the ancient beech woodlands of Common and Penn Woods provide space for true refreshment as they have done over the centuries. In good King Wenceslas weather there are real fires to stretch out in front of; in summer a sunny terrace beckons with picture post card views over the village church and a large garden in which to find a relaxing spot of your own.

One menu serves all, with choices that ensure everybody will be delighted. Modern British calls the shots, with fresh produce from local suppliers as a priority. From amongst around eight small plate dishes look out for Barbary duck confit Scotch egg with cucumber relish; seared Cornish scallops with warm new potato salad, crispy pancetta and balsamic glaze, and bubble and squeak with oak smoked bacon, free range poached egg and Hollandaise sauce.

Main meals follow the same enlightened path with grilled mullet fillet on summer bean and roast tomato cassoulet with fennel and elderflower salsa, and char-grilled 21-day aged British rib-eye steak with rocket, tomato compôte and skinny chips.

Their slow-roast 'Stockings Farm' pork belly with shallot and thyme confit, is something not to be missed, accompanied by sauteéd greens and caramelised apple.

If you are a natural lover of vegetables but can't stand the unimaginative way in which they are so often presented, be sure to have a field day at OQH with such delights as caramelised red onion tarte tatin with Oxfordshire blue cheese and rocket and walnut salad, beetroot and rocket risotto with garlic and basil mascarpone or red onion, chestnut mushrooms and spinach even.

Rich dark chocolate tart with raspberry ripple ice creami, anyone? Well, teeth can be a problem for some, so turn to the gooseberry and pear gingerbread crumble with honey mascarpone, or a range of home made ice creams that include coffee, lemon curd, rhubarb and custard.

A short but highly interesting wine list does the business in that direction with great skill, many by the large or smaller glass, and addicts of pudding wine are spoiled almost beyond belief, the list topped by a Hungarian Tokaji Oremus and an Italian vin santo di Capezzana, the 'wine of the saints'. Was there ever such interesting drinking at prices so kind?

Their straightforward Website is as informative and friendly as the staff themselves.

As a name for a restaurant it is hardly likely that The Purple Goose will fail to attract attention, but it is for the quality of its quality classic cuisine that it is more likely to be remembered. Scott Ludlow, Head Chef and Proprietor of this friendly place, aims to offer the things that so many restaurants aspire to, such as locally sourced produce of high quality and a wine list that inspires and complements, and unlike some actually achieves the desired results.

Their mission statement (whatever happened to all those worthy and often totally unattainable essays into optimism?) is short and pithy: 'The Purple Goose Restaurant - you either love it or you haven't eaten there'. So let's examine that claim.

The notion of having a great list of dishes under each course is fast fading - partly because the credit crunch has brought a sense of reality to such matters - and six opening courses, say, gives not unreasonable scope. Soup of the day is a steady survivor and with imagination brought into play, is sound judgement. A grilled whole Brixham lemon sole with a caramelised shallot and parsley butter make regular appearances as does the twice baked crab and smoked salmon soufflé with prawn velouté.

The Purple Goose is big on its chargrill, offering a range of weights from sirloin, ribeye and prime fillet. A choice of three sauces will satisfy most though I have the distinct feeling that another personal favourite might not be refused - just ask. The meat is sourced from the local butcher and is matured for a minimum of three weeks. And should you aspire to a T-bone or some other weight of steak, again do ask.

Seven main courses may include slow braised shoulder of lamb stuffed with herbs and fruit, confit garlic and blue cheese sauce, pan-roasted cod in aromatic spices, or corn-fed chicken breast wrapped in Parma ham.

The habit of passing up on a dessert course could be quite distressing, and often so symbolic that it hardly survives the first 'oh, go on'. In any case a list of seven mouth watering options is not the easiest of temptations to avoid, particularly when it is supplemented by a cheese trolley to die for. Eton mess, vanilla pod Chantilly cream, or seasonal fruit and spring berry coulis contains all the delights you might expect to find, and the duo of chocolate terrine with frozen aerated strawberry milk bottle could well prove to be the undoing of all your good intentions.

Lunch is served Wednesday to Saturday from an imaginative 2 or 3 course menu. The wine list at The Purple Goose is an example of its kind in that there are some 36 by the glass, making for really interesting drinking.

The Purple Room is an excellent haven for a party of up to 6 who want somewhere quiet and private to enjoy lunch or dinner. With its own private lounge, it is very affordable. Meanwhile the special events of the year are observed with élan.

Their Website provides further information and updates on menus for those wanting to plan in advance.

Mercifully, there are still what might be termed 'real' pubs around lending their charms and restorative powers to the rural British. True it is that WiFi has arrived at The Black Horse in a quiet, hidden, Buckinghamshire conservation village but this is no hindrance to the conduct of sociability in this quaint place so incredibly near to the heart of London.

Workmen building the Church of St James next door were billeted in the warren of rooms which still look much the same as they did then, except that the furnishings have moved up market with rich fabrics, antique furniture and pictures. The food is described as 'British Colonial' (BC) and a well-travelled wine list sits comfortably alongside those who prefer hand-pulled British beers. BC apparently includes honey and mustard glazed 'Stockings Farm' ham with fat chips, fried duck egg and pineapple chutney, or cider braised pork belly with shallot tatin and broad bean jus.

Whilst there are no great proclamations about seasonal food even the briefest of glimpses confirms such treats as pan-fried sea trout fillet on classic niçoise salad, or deep-fried Whiting goujons with crushed cumin and garlic peas and spiced 'Black Horse' ketchup, or a classic English lamb loin chops with marinated feta, baby gem, broad bean and pea salad. In a world where some believe it difficult to make chicken sound attractive any longer, at the Black Horse they offer corn-fed chicken schnitzel with harissa spiced aubergines, crisp sweet potato and soured cream, which seems to call the shots well enough.

Somebody who cares an awful lot about vegetables go out of their way to encourage interest in that department; try the baked goats' cheese with beetroot, oven-dried tomatoes and pistachio dressing or the wild mushroom, Barkham blue and rocket puff pastry turnover with heirloom tomato salad.

What people find so very tempting about the puddings here is the wines that go with them. A list of around 12 includes Château Laville Sauternes '05, and from Italy a Vin Santo di Capezzana Riserva '02, described as 'the wine of the saints'. But this is jumping the gun and thoughts of warm caramelised pineapple tarte tatin with cardamon ripple mascarpone, or steamed chocolate sponge with butterscotch syrup and clotted cream ice cream provide that final impetus.

A happy cheerful and experienced staff are always on hand to provide service that needs no prompting and will brighten the dullest day.

A convincing number of wines by the glass means that the art of pouring the right wine to go with your meal can be well pursued here, and advice is always on hand if required. Few bottles stray over the £20 boundary.

A visit to their Website will take care of matters such as changing menus or arrangements for special occasions.

The Apple Tree, tastefully restored to become a warm and inviting country pub, offers an upmarket gastronomic experience. Bright and spacious interiors involve the skilful use of natural materials that show off its contemporary design, while the log burning hearths, leather seating and comfortable teak furniture add a sense of panache. Service remains the same as ever - attentive and fast, making for memorable visits.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, box baked camembert with stiratta romagna and homemade tomato jam, and Mediterranean mezze of hummus, roasted vegetables, fregola, tzatziki, feta, spinach and ricotta pâté with warm flatbreads.

Amongst the appetisers look for freshly made soup; spiced crab, avocado, prawns, ginger and pink grapefruit, or water melon, prosciutto ham, feta and chilli ice cream. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer pan fried chicken livers, bacon, grapes, cherry tomatoes, herb croutons and grain mustard sauce, and for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecan, mango, watercress, bacon, orange and pomegranate vinaigrette never fail to please.

Pastas include linguini with tiger prawns, crab, chorizo, chilli, tomato and white wine, or tagliatelle with slow cooked Bolognaise and parmesan. For the big event there is calves liver with tray baked potatoes, red onion, bacon and sage panagrattato. The roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta and button onions is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. Spit chicken with lemon, garlic and thyme is worth trying too. For hearty eaters there are rib eye and fillet steaks or freshly battered haddock with frites, tartare sauce and minted mushy peas.

A wide range of supporting dishes include Belgium frites and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. For desserts choose between an apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard, and sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream. A worthy selection of cheeses in guaranteed to set the buffs alight.

The Apple Tree stocks a range of continental beers as well as cask ales. To complement the food, there is a well chosen wine list which includes champagnes. Their service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website.

Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings. 

Situated amongst the lovely rolling hills of the Chilterns, The Nags Head is a beautifully restored grade II listed, 15th Century Inn offering a varied and freshly cooked menu for lunch or dinner. The interior has real character, including a sizeable inglenook fireplace, perfect for taking your coffee in front of, whilst they also enjoy surrounding space offered by a large and peaceful garden.

An English and French fusion menu is on offer, featuring their home smoked fish and meats and some prized local produce from their chefs - Executive Chef Claude Paillet, who in the past few years has twice been named top chef in the country by The Publican Magazine, and Head Chef Alan Bell. Daily specials are on offer including fresh fish and vegetarian options. The Nags Head was the famous children's author Ronald Dahl's local, and has seen many a Prime Minister and Head of State dropping in on their way to Chequers. The restaurant featured not only in Michelin Guide 2010 because of its interesting menus, but also in the AA Guide. They've also been awarded an AA Rosette for Culinary Excellence.

Five double and twin bedrooms all have superbly finished bathrooms or shower suites, where quiet luxury is the name of the game and a massive English breakfast awaits you in the morning, with something lighter for the less eager beavers. One wonders how many of those on their way to Chequers might gladly have preferred to stay put in this undemanding and friendly place.

Described as "a foodie pub" this is broadly right in the best sense. Food is respected rather than worshipped, and it will come as no surprise when the awards and reviews start tumbling in at the same pace as the Michaels's other house, The Bricklayers Arms in Flaunden, Hertfordshire.

Every effort is made to locate fresh organic produce, where possible from local suppliers, a factor that shortens the odds when it comes to making a judgement about what's on the plate. They work from two menus, lunch and dinner, with special Sunday lunch also available. For lunch around nine starters jockey for position and from the outset you will find yourself in that 'I'd love them all' dilemma. Mushroom feuillete - puff pastry top with mushrooms in a calvados cream and juliennes of vegetables is one that might double up as a main course as well.

The crab shimmers into view with home smoked salmon, served with chive cream and blinis, or you might prefer the selection of home smoked fish served with lemon coriander butter and tomato chutney. For a main course there are few better treats than a steak, kidney and ale pie served with chive mash, or it might well be the haddock fillet in ale batter served with homemade tartar sauce, garden peas and chips.

Puddings are perfectly presumptuous - head for the pear and forest fruit bread with butter pudding and be seduced - but enjoy the pudding first.

A wine list that brings the faculties smartly to attention could provide a major justification for a visit to this excellent pub/restaurant with rooms, more details of which can be found on their classy, easy to navigate Website.