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There are times in life when the phrase "and now for something a little different" seem pretty inadequate. If Pebble Beach was located somewhere in, say, the Greek islands, it would be regarded as pleasant but unremarkable. Set in Southern England it is truly very different from the average restaurant with rooms, with spectacular views over to the Needles, out to sea, and a strong continental flavour.

Head Chef Pierre Chevillard sees to it that the freshness and simplicity of a cosmopolitan cuisine prevails, with all the confidence of man who earned his Michelin star during his 24 years at Chewton Glen. Starters may consist of a Breton style fish soup, served with croutons, rouille and gruyère cheese, or a crispy duck salad on rocket, watercress, bean sprouts and mouli with an orange and hoi sin dressing.

No surprise that the main courses have a distinctly maritime inclination - after all in theory you have only to cast a line from the beach to be in with a chance - so let's start with grilled fillet of smoked haddock, served on a bubble and squeak cake with a lightly poached egg and whole grain mustard jus. The hock of pork is braised in Burley cider a and served with pan-fried black pudding, apple mash and honey roasted carrots, and the pan-fried noisettes of Scottish venison with potato, celeriac rosti, roasted pear, spinach and blackberry jus are an alliance made in a gastronomic heaven.

Not for nothing was Pierre an outstanding sous chef for much of his time at Chewton Glen, and old habits die hard. A chargrilled tropical fruit brochette with caramelised rice pudding and piña colada sorbet raises more than a few eyebrows.

They are likely to remain raised during a cursory scan of the wine list, clearly the work of somebody who knows wine and the people who drink it.

Everything about Pebble Beach is special - you are strongly advised to enjoy it.