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Deep in the heart of most rural Hampshire the Peat Inn is the sort of place that fishermen dream about when baking in the heat of some fly-infested desert with not even an oasis in sight. One hundred yards away is the legendary Test trout stream, and back in the pub decent hand-drawn Hampshire beer awaits considered attention.

However attractive the thought of the lovingly prepared smoked salmon sandwiches in the fishing basket may be, the temptations of the food offered by chefs Andrew Clark and Lucy Townsend up the road is calculated to weaken resistance of even the strongest. They use the finest, freshest local produce to create a superbly simple, classic English menu that changes with the seasons.